All Locations > Washington > Northwest Region > Hwy 20 & N Casc… > N Cascades > Eldorado Peak > Main Peak

West Arete

Name: West Arete
Rating: 3.2

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British Mod. Snow

Routes in Main Peak

L › R R › L A › Z

	Austera Peak T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Easy Snow
	East Ridge Easy Snow
	Klawatti Peak SW Buttress T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Easy Snow
	North Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Steep Snow
	Northeast Face Mod. Snow
	Northwest Ice Couloir AI2 Steep Snow
	South Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Tepeh Towers T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c Easy Snow
	West Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Mod. Snow

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Type:	Trad, Snow, Alpine, 2800 ft (848 m), 10 pitches, Grade IV
GPS:	48.53755, -121.13436
FA:	Richard Emerson and Walter Gove (Aug. 29 1969)
Page Views:	4,026 total · 47/month
Shared By:	Matthew Lee on Feb 12, 2019 · Updates
Admins:	Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This long, narrow, steep finger of rock rises from above treeline to the snowy summit of El Dorado. A mix of 4th, easy 5th and technical rock, the route finding is challenging and the rock quality variable, all the makings of a true adventure climb.

Most parties will approach via El Dorado Creek and El Dorado Glacier. The route is meandering due to rock quality but the goal is to stay on the ridge. The primary technical challenge is two gendarmes, one of which is bypassed by a vertical, highly exposed slab traverse. After the technical climbing is completed, the final 3rd class to the summit is long and often travels through very loose rock.

There is a significant amount of 4th class and low 5th class climbing on questionable rock and working around it will take a lot of time. Most parties will bivy on route or be prepared for a very long day.