All Locations > Washington > Northwest Region > Hwy 20 & N Casc… > N Cascades > Eldorado Peak > Main Peak

Northwest Ice Couloir

Name: Northwest Ice Couloir
Rating: 3.1

AI2 Steep Snow

Routes in Main Peak

L › R R › L A › Z

	Austera Peak T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Easy Snow
	East Ridge Easy Snow
	Klawatti Peak SW Buttress T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Easy Snow
	North Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Steep Snow
	Northeast Face Mod. Snow
	Northwest Ice Couloir AI2 Steep Snow
	South Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Tepeh Towers T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c Easy Snow
	West Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Mod. Snow

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Type:	Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), Grade III
GPS:	48.53755, -121.13436
FA:	Dan Cauthorne and Bill Pilling
Page Views:	7,821 total · 59/month
Shared By:	Jeff Hebert on May 7, 2015 · Updates
Admins:	Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Head straight up the couloir, starting at about 7,800 feet and finishing at about 8,800 feet. Depending on conditions, it may be a pure snow/neve climb, it may have some ice, or it may have some mixed climbing.

The route finishes just below the knife-edge ridge, which is gained and followed to the summit.

Descend the standard East Ridge.

Location

From the classic East Ridge, hold at about 8,100 feet on a traverse to the North side of the mountain to an obvious notch between the North Ridge and the first rock spire. Find a rappel station and continue down to the West-facing cirque. Head South to the route.