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Washington
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> Hwy 20 & N Casc…
> N Cascades
> Eldorado Peak
> Main Peak
South Ridge
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 3.3 from 3
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Routes in Main Peak
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Austera Peak T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Easy Snow |
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East Ridge Easy Snow |
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Klawatti Peak SW Buttress T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Easy Snow |
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North Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Steep Snow |
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Northeast Face Mod. Snow |
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Northwest Ice Couloir AI2 Steep Snow |
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South Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Tepeh Towers T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c Easy Snow |
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West Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Mod. Snow |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,571 total · 54/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Boyce on Jan 15, 2020 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
We climbed this as a part of a larger link up in the area. It provided excellent rock for a few pitches of moderate terrain linking to a loose scree (or snow) scramble to the true summit. The route starts at a low point in the south ridge skyline as seen from the glacier. Approach via the flank of the glacier, this slope can be steep and exposed firn, crampons mandatory. The first pitch climbs an obvious crack up the face to the u notch on the ridge. The second pitch climbs excellent cracks on the opposite side of the ridge up to the knife-edge crest. 2 more entertaining pitches of classic B-Basin knife riding bring you to a short downclimb. From here the ridge is quite broad, and when melted will be loose scree. The terrain from here to the summit is mellow scrambling. Descend the east ridge.
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