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South Ridge
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 3.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Main Peak
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Austera Peak T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Easy Snow |
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East Ridge Easy Snow |
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Klawatti Peak SW Buttress T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Easy Snow |
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North Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Steep Snow |
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Northeast Face Mod. Snow |
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Northwest Ice Couloir AI2 Steep Snow |
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South Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Tepeh Towers T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c Easy Snow |
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West Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Mod. Snow |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 48.53755, -121.13436 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,969 total · 40/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Boyce on Jan 15, 2020 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
We climbed this as a part of a larger link up in the area. It provided excellent rock for a few pitches of moderate terrain linking to a loose scree (or snow) scramble to the true summit. The route starts at a low point in the south ridge skyline as seen from the glacier. Approach via the flank of the glacier, this slope can be steep and exposed firn, crampons mandatory. The first pitch climbs an obvious crack up the face to the u notch on the ridge. The second pitch climbs excellent cracks on the opposite side of the ridge up to the knife-edge crest. 2 more entertaining pitches of classic B-Basin knife riding bring you to a short downclimb. From here the ridge is quite broad, and when melted will be loose scree. The terrain from here to the summit is mellow scrambling. Descend the east ridge.
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