Type: Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Paul Zeltner, Jacob, Advaith
Page Views: 251 total · 19/month
Shared By: T T Niranjan on Aug 8, 2019
Admins: Gunkswest, Gokul G

You & This Route


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Description

A 3-pitch sport route up the middle of the Upper Wall. High quality rock, nice moves; the route would be more enjoyable with more consistent bolting. Technical crux is on P2 but a couple of runout sections on other sections.

P1: 6a/5.10a (R): The route starts with a 45 degree traverse to the right. The first bolt is quite high up,  just after a hard move with a potential fall of 20-25 feet to the ground, so make this move carefully. Reasonably well-bolted from there on to a double bolt anchor.
 
 P2: 6b+/5.10d (PG): Steep and mostly straight up. Mostly well-bolted, but with some runout sections.

 P3: 5c/5.9 (PG13): Technically the easiest but most runout pitch. Shallow horizontal cracks initially allow some protection but you can as well save energy and run it out (about 25 feet).

Warning: If attempting this a day or two after rains:
 
The uppermost section of P3 is along water run-off and tends to stay wet for days after rain. The anchor is about 25 feet, 10 O’clock from the last bolt. The last 10-15 feet of this is 4b/5.6 terrain but slippery when wet. Slipping here would result a ~40 foot fall. The alternative then is to climb straight up (away from the anchor) toward the big boulder system and place a cam in the crack below it and then traverse horizontally leftward to the anchor. This involves climbing over 5 feet of wet slippery rock (the last bit), still risking a 40 foot fall if you slip there but seemed safer than climbing 10 feet of slippery rock. If you don’t want to take either of these options then you need to bail off the last bolt. An extra bolt here would help greatly.

Location

The route is bang in the middle of the upper wall (north face) visible from the road. Two approaches: 
  1. Scrambling/bushwhacking up from the left, or the easier option:
  2. From the right, atop the lower wall, walking past the small Nama (trident symbol) marking, the location of a cave/pond place of worship for about 100m through vegetation. The route is close to the second, big Nama. The top of the lower wall can be reached by either climbing one of the lower wall routes, or hiking. 
Alternate approach from the top:
- Hike to the summit of Achalu, going up two sets of stairs carved into the bedrock.
- Find a tree on the summit that you can tie a 40-50 foot piece of rope to. Rappel off the tree down to the top anchor of the route, which is in a left-facing corner at the left end of a huge overlap that is easily seen from the fields below (in December 2018, the anchor was completely covered in vegetation, we cleared all the growth from around the anchor). The anchor was placed as part of the re-bolting of the route.
-Rappel skiers down and left (going by the left side of a huge cactus patch)

The first bolt on the route is high up on a rightward traverse ledge system, so look carefully.

Protection

Well bolted in some sections; runout in others. Possibility to place some gear but that still leaves some run outs.

Photos

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