All Locations > Oregon > Willamette Valley > Skinner Butte (aka Th…

First Column

Name: First Column
Rating: 3.1

5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in Skinner Butte (aka The Columns)

L › R R › L A › Z

	4th Column Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	5th Column (aka Sign Face) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Barn Door Layback T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Bat Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Bat Face TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Beautiful Bae T,TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Crack a No Go T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Dastardly Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Dirty Crack T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Discipline Crack T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Fat Crack (AKA Outer Column Jam) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	First Column TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Forthright T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Grass Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Hard Lieback T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Keyhole T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Left Ski Track T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Limp Dick T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Main Chimney T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	New Chimney TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	New Chimney Jam T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	One Note Samba TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Rat Snake Head T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
	Right Ski Track T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Satisfaction T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Second Column T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Second Column Left Jam T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Second Column Right Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Speed Crack (aka Sign Crack) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Thin Crack T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Transportation Route T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Viagra T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Wheat Without The Thins T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

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Type:	TR
FA:	Tom Bauman
Page Views:	1,077 total · 16/month
Shared By:	Elijah S on Aug 6, 2019 · Updates
Admins:	Kristin Tippey, JD Merritt, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Per the guide book "Rock Climbing Southwest Oregon" (which, IMO, is a lot better than the parking lot sign that has more than a few errors on it), three variants for this climb can net you 5.10a, 5.11a, or 5.12a.

The route is located immediately left of the main chimney, also left of the large poured concrete block.

The route is super simple until about 10 feet up, then the challenge starts.

This face climb offers small friction bumps for footholds, right-hand stays fairly dedicated to a side pull on the edge of the column. The difference in grades depends largely upon left-hand placement. 10a grade allows the use of the left crack. Using both edges of the column (no crack) gets you 5.11a. Using only one edge or the other for hands pushes it up to 5.12a.