Elevation: 480 ft
GPS: 44.058, -123.097 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 45,945 total · 248/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Jan 25, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Kristy Tippey, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

Description

This popular wall is located in the heart of Eugene minutes from Elevation climbing gym, The Crux climbing gym, REI, and downtown pubs and restaurants. Despite its small size it has a great concentration of cracks. The basalt columns are all trad and TR lines that average 47 feet and have many nice bolted anchors and chains at top.

The Columns get afternoon to evening sun and can be crowded with the after-work crowds. It is a great place to practice crack-technique and leading. The routes mostly range from 5.6 to 5.12 but the locals will tell you about the "off" holds and variations to make the climbs more challenging.

Important note: The route-name board and ratings were done by someone who doesn't climb at The Columns (name omitted so as not to publicly shame him). Some of the ratings are therefore incorrect, both high and low. Also, many routes are missing from the board because the city's guide-writer didn't know that they exist. Trust Tom Rogers' old guide with ratings by Alan Watts (of Smith Rock fame).

Finally, while the rock here is generally solid, occasionally the rock might break off. A few years back a large block came off the top of the route "Limp Dick." As a result, the right half of the crag has detestable chainlink fence over it. Luckily the best climbs remain open.

HISTORY
Between 1893 and the 1930s, the columns were exposed by quarrying operations that provided rocks for the building of the Willamette Street and Shelton McMurphey House in Eugene. Material was moved by horse pulled wagons as well as narrow gauge railroad to the local construction sites. The remaining wide bowl of rock became popular for rock climbing around the 1940s. 

Getting There

Located in Downtown Eugene at 2nd and Lincoln. The approach is 30sec from your car.

31 Total Climbs

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Location: Skinner Butte (aka The Columns) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Skinner Butte (aka The Columns)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 34
Main Chimney
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 32
Fat Crack
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 20
Bat Crack
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 17
Speed Crack (aka Sign Crack)
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Second Column Left Jam
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
New Chimney
TR
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 14
Forthright
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 17
Hard Lieback
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
Left Ski Track
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Dastardly Crack
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Grass Crack
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
Limp Dick
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Satisfaction
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
First Column
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Bat Face
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Main Chimney
 34
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Fat Crack
 32
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Bat Crack
 20
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Speed Crack (aka Sign Crack)
 17
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Second Column Left Jam
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
New Chimney
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Forthright
 14
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Hard Lieback
 17
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Left Ski Track
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Dastardly Crack
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Grass Crack
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Limp Dick
 15
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Satisfaction
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
First Column
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
Bat Face
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
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