Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Pedro Casapardo Hoffmeister, December, 2008
Page Views: 571 total · 20/month
Shared By: Pedro Casapardo Hoffmeister on Jun 27, 2019
Admins: Kristy Tippey, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Leads the old "Discipline Jam Direct" top-rope problem in the New Chimney, a top-rope climb rated 5.12c by Alan Watts and Tom Rogers. The lead is rated R because if you pop the one offset on the crux, you'll land sideways on the triangle block and probably break your left hip or leg. The "terrifying" factor brings the route from 3 stars to 2 even though the climbing is sustained, fun, and hard. Excellent jams and cross-through moves. A 3-star, challenging top-rope problem if you don't want to lead.

Step up to the ledge in the New Chimney and jam the smallest, slightly overhanging crack, until it widens at the top. Your feet have to stay to the right of Dirty Crack to get the 12c tick.


The crack in the back right side of the chimney.

This route is #15 on the Skinner Butte sign board but since it is a specific variation the grade differs as described above.


Small to medium cams, one large cam at the top, plus small offsets for the lower-middle. Bolt anchors and chains for the top-rope.