Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Pedro Casapardo Hoffmeister, December, 2008
Page Views: 157 total · 22/month
Shared By: Pedro Casapardo Hoffmeister on Jun 27, 2019
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Leads the old "Discipline Jam Direct" top-rope problem in the New Chimney, a top-rope climb rated 5.12c by Alan Watts and Tom Rogers. The lead is rated R because if you pop the one offset on the crux, you'll land sideways on the triangle block and probably break your left hip or leg. The "terrifying" factor brings the route from 3 stars to 2 even though the climbing is sustained, fun, and hard. Excellent jams and cross-through moves. A 3-star, challenging top-rope problem if you don't want to lead.


Step up to the ledge in the New Chimney and jam the smallest, slightly overhanging crack, until it widens at the top.


Small to medium cams, one large cam at the top, plus small offsets for the lower-middle. Bolt anchors and chains for the top-rope.


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