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Routes in Skinner Butte (aka The Columns)
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4th Column Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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5th Column (aka Sign Face) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Barn Door Layback T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bat Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bat Face TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Beautiful Bae T,TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Crack a No Go T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Dastardly Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dirty Crack T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Discipline Crack T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fat Crack (AKA Outer Column Jam) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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First Column TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Forthright T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Grass Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hard Lieback T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Keyhole T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Left Ski Track T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Limp Dick T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Main Chimney T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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New Chimney TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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New Chimney Jam T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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One Note Samba TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rat Snake Head T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Right Ski Track T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Satisfaction T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Second Column T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Second Column Left Jam T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Second Column Right Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Speed Crack (aka Sign Crack) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thin Crack T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Transportation Route T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Viagra T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wheat Without The Thins T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Pedro Hoffmeister, December, 2008 |
| Page Views: | 1,005 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Pedro Hoffmeister on Jun 27, 2019 |
| Admins: | Kristin Tippey, JD Merritt, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Description
Leads the old "Discipline Jam Direct" top-rope problem in the New Chimney, a top-rope climb rated 5.12c by Alan Watts and Tom Rogers. The lead is rated R because if you pop the one offset on the crux, you'll land sideways on the triangle block and probably break your left hip or leg. The "terrifying" factor brings the route from 3 stars to 2 even though the climbing is sustained, fun, and hard. Excellent jams and cross-through moves. A 3-star, challenging top-rope problem if you don't want to lead.
Step up to the ledge in the New Chimney and jam the smallest, slightly overhanging crack, until it widens at the top. Your feet have to stay to the right of Dirty Crack to get the 12c tick.
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