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Routes in Columns (aka Skinner Butte)

3rd Column Jam T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
4th Column Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
4th Column Jam T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
5th Column (aka Sign Face) TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bat Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack a No Go T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fat Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hard Lieback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Ski Track T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Limp Dick T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Main Chimney T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Ski Track T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Satisfaction T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Second Column Left Jam TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sign Crack (4th Column Jam Left?) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Transportation Route T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,657 total, 11/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Jan 25, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This climb is the first crack just to the left of the chainlink fence. The left leaning crack starts with fingers and quickly expands to off-hands size. Stop at the chains at the top of the small column or continue up and left to the anchor atop Satisfaction.

According to the old timers, this crack is gradually getting wider over the years.

Protection

A few nuts and a single set of cams to a #4 camalot will be more than enough.

Rap from chains at the top or walk off to the north (left).

Photos

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Richard Dana
Eugene, OR
Richard Dana   Eugene, OR
Definitely no need for a #4 on this one. Single set to #1 C4 works great, with maybe an extra purple or green for someone pushing the grade. Anchor at the top of this smaller column now consists of a single bolt with chain. Perhaps the other bolt was on a now-departed piece of column? Regardless, you can set a good directional with a .75 once atop the column, and traverse to your right to climb the fence to the top of Hard Layback/Fat Crack where solid anchors exist. Excellent climb, splitter! Mar 30, 2016
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
The oldtimers were right. The upper 4' of the column that is the left side of the crack fell off this May. Doesn't change the grade too much. Jun 10, 2008