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Routes in Columns (aka Skinner Butte)

3rd Column Jam T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
4th Column Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
4th Column Jam T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
5th Column (aka Sign Face) TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bat Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack a No Go T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fat Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hard Lieback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Ski Track T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Limp Dick T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Main Chimney T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Ski Track T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Satisfaction T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Second Column Left Jam TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sign Crack (4th Column Jam Left?) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Transportation Route T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 749 total, 9/month
Shared By: Max Tepfer on May 5, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Thin and bouldery, this climb requires precise, powerful movements on the tiniest gear. That being said, it's fairly easy to top-rope yourself through all the hard moves, so, objectively, it's not really all that frightening. It's also one of the few uncontrived (or maybe least contrived) face climbs at the crag.

Start with technicial moves on good crimps to a solid foot on the arete and a no-hands. Place your first gear and set up for the crux stab to a jug. Fire in more gear and work out the easier but awkward lie-backing before the crack starts to open up. A final lunge off a tips-lock to the ledge and it's over. After manteling onto the ledge, choose your line to the chains.

Location

Crack a No Go is the thin seam that splits the leaning face immediately left of Limp Dick and right of Satisfaction.

Protection

One blue ballnut, (or two if you want to double up on your first piece) two red ballnuts, and a grey Metolius will see you through the business. Bring whatever else you want for whichever line you pick off the ledge.

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