Type: Trad, 130 ft (39 m)
GPS: 51.59796, -4.92866
FA: P Whillance. Feb 1977
Page Views: 607 total · 7/month
Shared By: Daniel Heins on Apr 25, 2019
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Jack Copland

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

UK E1 5b.

A St Govan's and Pembroke classic (accordingly punished with polish), following the obvious line of cracks/flakes up the buttress.

Start on the platform, and follow holds up to the flake/cracks above.  Don't skimp on protection (good thread possible) and let yourself become another accident getting hurt popping off the lower polish. Follow the cracks to a groove up to under a roof.  For the full value of the climb, continue straight over this roof.  (If you must, you can also exit right to an easy groove up, but this significantly reduces the enjoyment for the climb).

Access to the belay may be impeded at high tide. Line may seep a little bit, but non-critically.  

Location Suggest change

This is on the right hand side of the buttress that mildly encloses the platform that the descent chimney spits you onto.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack, emphasis on wires. Have a sling or two to place threads. Stake anchor.

Photos

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