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St. Govan's Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in St. Govan's

L › R R › L A › Z

	Army Dreamers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Arrow, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	But Incest Is Best T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Butcher, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Chieftain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Ghandi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Hangover '77 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	27 ft
GPS:	51.59796, -4.92866 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	2,456 total · 40/month
Shared By:	Daniel Heins on Apr 25, 2019
Admins:	Chris Owen, Euan Cameron Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Bird closures Details

Seasonal bird closures are often in effect in spring and summer. Consult the BMC Regional Access Database at thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ for up to date information. Yellow signs with detailed closure info and painted red hats with arrows demarking closed sections should also be obeyed.

Description

Packed with classics, non-tidal, minimally restricted, and close to the parking, St. Govan's is visited by just about all those who come to Pembroke to climb. As a result, some of the more moderate grades have suffered a bit of polish, but not enough to stop enjoyment of said lines. Classic lines include Army Dreamers (HVS), the Butcher (soft E3), Test Case (E3), the Arrow (E1), Get Some In (E5), and Tangerine Dream (E4). Overall, it provides a stellar assortment of lines, most rewarding in the HVS to E5 range (roughly 5.8 to 5.11+).

Expect crowds on good weather weekends and especially bank holidays.

See UKClimbing for full route list/more info

Getting There

Take a short walk east from the parking at 51.599655, -4.936912. Continue past Trevallen Cliff to the next platform arcing toward the south, starting at a large detached block. Either abseil in from stakes (minding climbers below), or downclimb the chimney behind the large detached block (a polished Diff/low 5th class).

Tides

Mostly non tidal. High spring tides cut off the base of the Arrow, and all climbs up to the Arrow are non-tidal. The platform around Tactition and Deranged is always above the tide, but may need a direct abseil in.