Elevation: 92 ft
GPS: 51.599, -4.937 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 381 total · 351/month
Shared By: Daniel James on Apr 22, 2019
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron
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Access Issue: Bird closures Details

Description

The long band of cliffs of the MOD firing range provides and endless playground of seaside trad. While onshore there may be a mixture of sheep, rusting tanks, and unexploded ordinance, the cliffs against the sea provide a perfect mix of trad cragging and adventure climbing.

Like the rest of Pembroke, there are many areas that require a rappel to access, and many areas are tidal or at least affected by rough seas. Expect heavy traffic on easier and classic routes and areas with simpler access, like St Govan's. Being limestone, some routes suffer from a polish, but rarely critically.

If the sun is baking, you can escape the heat down into Huntman's Leap, but with a steep entry price with only one E1. If you can climb it though, it is filled with many hard classics. St Govan's East will generally be decently shaded, most other areas are south facing and bake if the air is still on a sunny summer day.

This covers the following crags, in order from west to east:
Saddle Head / Bosherton Head / Huntsman's Leap / Stennis Head / Stennis Ford / Newton Head / Chapel Point / [PARKING] / Trevallen / St Govan's / St Govan's East

Getting There

Park at the free lot at 51.599655, -4.936912, accessed via a country road passing through Bosherton. From here all the cliffs are climbable so take a short walk and have fun!

Heading left/east from the car park you will hit Trevallen, St Govan's, and St Govan's East.
Heading right/west you will hit Chapel Point, Newton Head, Stennis Head, the stunning narrow canyon of Huntman's Leap, Bosherton Head, and Saddle Head. Further cliffs are accessed in this direction but this brings us to another section/guidebook volume

Guidebooks

For the best and most comprehensive coverage, pick up the Climber's Club guide, as vol 4 is explicitly every documented route in this section. The Climber's Club/Wired Guides also offer a selected coverage guidebook for all of Pembroke which still still quite a good job for the area.

Rockfax's old book and its app also offer a fairly good selected coverage of the area.

6 Total Climbs

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