Type: Sport, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches
FA: P1. Mischa Tourin, Kris Fiore. P2/3: Seth Maciejowski, Chris Skalka, Mischa Tourin
Page Views: 2,285 total · 85/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on Apr 2, 2019
Admins: Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Parking and Dogs Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

First two pitches are sport and can be climbed as their own sport pitches alone due to the Upper Dome Ledge. Be mindful to stay on mechanical bolts on pitch two and not end up on Fire in the Hole. If you're clipping glue-in bolts, you're about to climb 5.12.

Locate the right-most sport route on the Neighborhood Ledge.

P1: Climb a steep section with good holds to a small ledge before a tricky crux. Mantle the ledge to an anchor on the left side of the Upper Dome ledge. 5.9, 50 ft.

P2: Start up Two Times Infinity for a few bolts and then split hard left and up face climbing to an anchor at a small ledge. Don't get tricked into going straight up into the glue-in bolts of Fire in the Hole unless 12a is your biscuit. 5.10a 90 ft.

[NOTE: It is sport up to here. Pitch 3, while fun and worth doing does require gear. Most parties choose to rap from atop P2]

P3: Traverse the ledge around the corner to eventually meet up with the end of Seven Cruxes. Very cool position! 5.8, 70 ft.

To lower, either rap down the Dometop Wall with a 60-meter rope or rap down to the neighborhood ledge if you have a 70. Tie end knots, it's a rope stretcher. It is highly recommended to rap with a 70-meter rope as it keeps you clear of other climbers and is just a dandy fun rappel.

Location

Start at the right-most line of bolts on the neighborhood wall.

Protection

Quickdraws for P1&2, Standard rack for P3.

Descent

The descent can be tricky so I thought it would warrant explaining.

From P2:
Two raps with a single 60-meter rope.

One single rap off the left with a 70-meter rope. An AWESOME rappel.

From P3:

If walking off, continue past the P3 anchors to sling a few trees and get to the top or pitch it out as its own pitch. It's 3rd/4th class climbing but with slippery leaves or any moisture it would be a fatal slip.

If rappelling, a 60-meter gets you down in 3 raps or two raps with a 70-meter.

Photos