All Locations > Vermont > 1. Northern Ver… > Bolton Area > Bolton Dome > 10. Neighborhood Ledge

Lichenology

Name: Lichenology
Rating: 3.1

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in 10. Neighborhood Ledge

L › R R › L A › Z

	Casual Collusion S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Get Two Birds Stoned at Once S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Lichenology S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Mister Rogers S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Quiggly S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Right Wing Nut Job T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Seven Cruxes T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Warden Wave S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Type:	Sport, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches
FA:	P1. Mischa Tourin, Kristen Fiore. P2/3: Seth Maciejowski, Chris Skalka, Mischa Tourin
Page Views:	3,808 total · 55/month
Shared By:	Kristen Fiore on Apr 2, 2019
Admins:	Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514 Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Parking and Dogs Details

CRAG-VT has secured a parking lot for the Bolton Dome! Currently there is room for 12 cars. Turn onto Champ Ln. and the parking lot is immediately seen on the left. There are signs to show you where to park. From the lot, walk up to the cliff.

IF THE LOT IS FULL: Park on the SOUTH side of the road clear of any mailboxes and with all tires off the paved portion of the road.

Additionally, no dogs are allowed at Bolton Dome after a few incidents involving neighbors.

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org Details

Description

First two pitches are sport and can be climbed as their own sport pitches alone due to the Upper Dome Ledge. Be mindful to stay on mechanical bolts on pitch two and not end up on Fire in the Hole. If you're clipping glue-in bolts, you're about to climb 5.12.

Locate the right-most sport route on the Neighborhood Ledge.

P1: Climb a steep section with good holds to a small ledge before a tricky crux. Mantle the ledge to an anchor on the left side of the Upper Dome ledge. 5.9, 50 ft.

P2: Start up Two Times Infinity for a few bolts and then traverse hard left and up face climbing to an anchor at a small ledge. Don't get tricked into going straight up on the glue-in bolts of Fire in the Hole unless 12a is your biscuit. 5.10a 90 ft.

[NOTE: It is sport up to here. Pitch 3, while fun and worth doing does require gear. Most parties choose to rap from atop P2]

P3: Traverse the ledge around the corner to eventually meet up with the end of Seven Cruxes. Very cool position! 5.8, 70 ft.

To lower, either rap down the Dometop Wall with a 60-meter rope or rap down to the neighborhood ledge if you have a 70. Tie end knots, it's a rope stretcher. It is highly recommended to rap with a 70-meter rope as it keeps you clear of other climbers and is just a dandy fun rappel.

Location

Start at the right-most line of bolts on the neighborhood wall.

Protection

Quickdraws for P1&2, Standard rack for P3.

Descent

The descent can be tricky so I thought it would warrant explaining.

From P2:
Two raps with a single 60-meter rope.

One single rap off the left with a 70-meter rope. An AWESOME rappel.

From P3:

If walking off, continue past the P3 anchors to sling a few trees and get to the top or pitch it out as its own pitch. It's 3rd/4th class climbing but with slippery leaves or any moisture it would be a fatal slip.

If rappelling, a 60-meter gets you down in 3 raps or two raps with a 70-meter.