Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: pete clark
Page Views: 741 total · 39/month
Shared By: pete clark on Oct 23, 2019
Admins: Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Description

A one-of-a-kind fantastical route the bisects the huge overhanging wall in the middle of Bolton Dome. A very unique route to Bolton and for schist. Bring a boatload of steep climbing endurance and some of that new fangled kneebarring technology.

Start on the right side of the Neighborhood Wall and climb up Quiggly (or Lichenonlogy). Clip select bolts and put a long runner on the Quiggly anchor to reduce rope drag. From this anchor/ledge, the climbing starts on a 40-70 degree overhanging crack that trends sharply left across the wall. The climbing on the crack is consistent and pumpy, but on good holds with even the occasional hand jam if you choose to express yourself in that way. At the 5th bolt you can dangle from a jug or slam in a kneebar. Give yourself a highfive for climbing to this point, a 12B or C called "Flying Things". Take note the rusted aid bolts that go straight up from the original aid first ascent.

From the 5th bolt, embark on a three-bolt V8 journey across a left trending roof feature with some inimitable climbing characterized by gut busting underclings, technical kneebars, and a move that can only be described as a velociraptor strike. Culminate the crux-athon with a foot swinging, apocalyptic four-inch dyno! A few powerful exit moves lead to jugs and a near-sit rest at the mid-point anchor most of the way up the steep part of the wall. This crux might be comparable to Muscle Beach at Rumney

After the anchor for "Get Two Birds Stoned at Once," an extension to the summit is possible but is currently unbolted. It is theoretically possible and will be in the solid 5.14 range 

Location

Start on Quiggly (or Lichenology) on the right side of the Neighborhood ledge. Climb vertical moderate climbing to the Quiggly anchor. After the anchor, climb the obvious 40-70 degree overhanging left trending crack, then embark on a crux roof then traverses left. Culminates at a midpoint anchor most of the way up the wall.

Protection

The steep wall is 7-8 bolts of fixed gear (currently). Quiggly is another 4 - 6 bolts with long runners. Some anchor work and bolt rearrangement still remains to be done, but this shouldn't stop you from climbing the rout

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