Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Sport, 80 ft (24 m)|
|Page Views:||741 total · 39/month|
|Shared By:||pete clark on Oct 23, 2019|
|Admins:||Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kris Fiore|
IF THE LOT IS FULL: Park on the SOUTH side of the road clear of any mailboxes and with all tires off the paved portion of the road.
Additionally, no dogs are allowed at Bolton Dome after a few incidents involving neighbors.
Start on the right side of the Neighborhood Wall and climb up Quiggly (or Lichenonlogy). Clip select bolts and put a long runner on the Quiggly anchor to reduce rope drag. From this anchor/ledge, the climbing starts on a 40-70 degree overhanging crack that trends sharply left across the wall. The climbing on the crack is consistent and pumpy, but on good holds with even the occasional hand jam if you choose to express yourself in that way. At the 5th bolt you can dangle from a jug or slam in a kneebar. Give yourself a highfive for climbing to this point, a 12B or C called "Flying Things". Take note the rusted aid bolts that go straight up from the original aid first ascent.
From the 5th bolt, embark on a three-bolt V8 journey across a left trending roof feature with some inimitable climbing characterized by gut busting underclings, technical kneebars, and a move that can only be described as a velociraptor strike. Culminate the crux-athon with a foot swinging, apocalyptic four-inch dyno! A few powerful exit moves lead to jugs and a near-sit rest at the mid-point anchor most of the way up the steep part of the wall. This crux might be comparable to Muscle Beach at Rumney
After the anchor for "Get Two Birds Stoned at Once," an extension to the summit is possible but is currently unbolted. It is theoretically possible and will be in the solid 5.14 range