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Routes in Disappointment Cliffs
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2 Much T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Angry Inch, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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China Bones T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dangerous Lesions T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Dis-infect T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dynamo Humm T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Good Boy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Guides Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jumping Shark T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Last Resort T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Place T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pray for Giveness T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Pride & Joy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Say Your Name! T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Seamed Right T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Suspect, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Thriller T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown (Just right of Angry Inch) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unnamed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Winner Takes All T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Wolf Dog Shuffle, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 38.11634, -109.59215 |
| FA: | Steve Hong |
| Page Views: | 1,126 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | rkrum on Nov 16, 2018 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures!
Details
2026 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
Start is brief right facing corner .5 to .75, short bit of broken climbing to a stance underneath the hand crack. Hero hands out the overhang to 3s get you to the base of the stacked blocks. Step onto the stack for a breather before the crux - wicked cool flare climbing with .5s in the back
Location
Locate the Hong Buttress. The route is on the left side of the buttress, right of the main gully descending to the canyon floor. The route is striking, even all the way from the parking area.
There isn't much of a trail but the hike up really isn't too bad.
Protection
.5 - 3 C4. Fingers, tips protect the section of hand jamming behind the stacked blocks. Bring a hand size cam to back up the anchor.
Photos
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