Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
GPS: 38.11634, -109.59215
FA: Steven Lucarelli
Page Views: 787 total · 9/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Nov 1, 2018
Admins: slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher

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Warning Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Hard to believe that routes this good can still be had in such a popular place!  Starts in a right facing corner with tight fingers/tips through a bulge to a nice stem rest.  Continue up through a steep fingers and off fingers crux with a few feet out right that keep the grade manageable.  Fun climbing the rest of the way leads to a nice ledge below a big detached flake.  

Note:  This route could continue for at least another pitch if it wasn't for the flake but I wouldn't recommend it.  If that flake peels off you and your belayer are F#$ked!

Location Suggest change

The farthest right route at the Disappointment Cliffs, about 100m past Communal Rim Job.  Starts just left of a large pillar/block leaning against the wall.

Protection Suggest change

doubles .3 to #1 Camalot with a couple #2 friends and about 5 or 6 .5's. A green alien is nice for the start and one each #2 and #3 Camalots might also be useful.

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