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Routes in Disappointment Cliffs

2 Much T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Angry Inch, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Azz Banana T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dynamo Humm T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Good Boy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pray for Giveness T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown (Just right of Angry Inch) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Winner Takes All T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wolf Dog Shuffle, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 94 total · 1/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Nov 24, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


This is one of the few routes that I found that had a plaque. Starts with steep fingers in a right facing corner to splitter ringlocks and thin hands. About 30' up a block is encountered that forces you out right to a hand crack. From a stance above the block continue up a flaired left facing corner that goes from thin hands to fingers. About 8' of choss needs to be climbed to get to the anchor otherwise this would be a 3 star route.


Hard to say but somewhere to the left of Angery Inch on the southwest side of the cliff. I would say about 5 to 10 minutes hike to the left of where the wall turns from south to southwest?


3 each .5 to #1 and a couple .4's and #2's (Camalots). Two rap hangers for an anchor and a 70m rope is just long enough.


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bandito route, maybe a bit left of the short steep fist splitter? Nov 26, 2012
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
I think I do remember seeing a splitter fist crack about 100 yards to the right of this route. May 2, 2013

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