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Routes in Disappointment Cliffs

2 Much T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Angry Inch, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Azz Banana T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dynamo Humm T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Good Boy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pray for Giveness T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown (Just right of Angry Inch) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Winner Takes All T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wolf Dog Shuffle, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Mark Bauer, Brett Alexander.
Page Views: 1,510 total · 16/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Mar 30, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is angry for sure! Unless your fingers are the size of brats your going to be swimming in this thing. At least it starts and ends with a nice finger crack and the clipping stance at the anchor is 1st class, none of that desperate anchor clipping crux crap on this route.

Folks with small fingers can probably ringlock there way up this route but I don't think it would change the difficulty.

Location

This route is located on the far right side of Disappointment Cliffs past Dangerous Lesion. Just keep going right until you get to a large right facing corner with a nice hand to fist crack in the corner. On the left wall will be the Angry Inch, you can't miss it and won't regret the walk.

Protection

Two .4 Camalots and six .5 Camalots. Three bolts with slings for an anchor.

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EldoFiend
WY
 
EldoFiend   WY
 
This, not Power Line, is the best pure 1 inch splitter in the world. But dear god is it hard. Apr 1, 2010
The first ascent of this route was made by Tahoe climbers Mark Bauer and Brett Alexander. Mar 30, 2010

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