Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches|
|FA:||Mike daly, Art DeGoede 9/89|
|Page Views:||851 total · 29/month|
|Shared By:||Brian Prince on Aug 16, 2018|
|Admins:||Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Starts on Twilight Zone ledge.
P1) Head up the ramp of Pressure Sensitive a ways (easy 5th) and make a belay under the bolt of the next pitch.
P2) Carefully head up onto the steeper face and clip the bolt. Bust some big and thin moves right and up until you can reach some good knobs. Fall from this crux (V4?) is totally safe but a little jarring since you're off to the side of the bolt a good bit. Get some ok pro for a directional and traverse right to setup a belay in the bottom of the corner.
P3) 10d - up the beautiful, sweeping corner which reminded me of Rostrum's 10d corner, although this is longer and probably harder (and a bit dirtier, but that should go without saying considering the venues). Belay at the top of it at a single bolt and gear (#2 useful)
P4) 10d+ - up very runout but relatively easy terrain past 3 bolts. You're face climbing to the left of the corner. some gear can be had in a couple spots. Bolts can also be hard to spot. Crux is pulling over a bulge and comes at the 3rd bolt right below the anchor. It is well protected with an attentive belay, but is nails for the grade. awesome holds. 2 bolt anchor, sweet ledge
P5) 10a - Traverse left and up past 5 bolts and sweet crimps to gain a ramp. Follow this thing (easy) to its end where a 6th bolt will then protect a move out left. Up some cool corners to a nice belay ledge 20ft. below a huge ledge. finger size for the belay. 60m. Or got to huge ledge with a 70m
P6) up to the huge ledge which is where Levity's End comes in. Off the right side of the ledge is where the last pitch of that climb will lead to the top (5.8 r-ish). Alternatively, you can head a bit left and up off this ledge to get on the patio (an even bigger ledge) and, with tricky route finding, scramble to the top. Or climb one of a couple routes off the patio (enigma -10c -highly recommend) to get to the top.
P1/P2 note - there is an old bolt more directly below the main corner that is a possible way to access the corner. But the moves getting to this bolt and moving past it seemed much harder than the way described (which is 50 ft. to the left). The bolt protecting the way described was also old (but has been replaced). Not sure which way the FAists went. Likely they tried the straight up way then "bailed" to the left way