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Sunlight and Shadow
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in West Face
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Aerial Boundaries T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Between the Thighs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Digging in the Dirt T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Enigma T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gray Squirrel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Holy Grail T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Levity's End T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Link, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lizards Kiss, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Meteora T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Modern Guilt T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Offramp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pennies On The Patio T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sunlight and Shadow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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West Face Direct T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Whistler T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 606 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Wesley Neill on Jun 20, 2019 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures
Details
The SeKi Rock Climbing websitenps.gov/seki/planyourvisit/… has current closures as well as other climbing information for visitors.
Moro Rock (SEKI) and Chimney Rocks usually have nesting closures every year from April 1 to August 15.
As of April 2016, all routes are open to climbing.
Moro Rock (SEKI) and Chimney Rocks usually have nesting closures every year from April 1 to August 15.
As of April 2016, all routes are open to climbing.
Description
An alternate and more difficult approach to "Between the Thighs". Can be aborted after the first pitch to join "West Face Direct" on its second pitch (5.6 Off-Width and traverse).
Pitch 1: Starts off of the same belay anchors as "West Face Direct", at the far climbers right of Zocalo Ledge. Instead of West Face Direct, take the diagonal finger crack up and right until you top out on a ledge. The crux is very balancy, with the finger crack being flared and quite dirty. My partner called it "awkward", and I guess she is right, but I still thought it was fun. Bolted anchors await you. I originally voted this pitch as 5.9+ as that was the grade found on Daniel's topo at sekiclimbing.com. After leading it twice, I don't feel ashamed in calling this thing solid 5.10. Grades are subjective, so be careful on this climb and feel free to vote differently than I did.
Pitch 2: Move the belay approximately 30 feet to climbers right along the ledge and find the second flake system (not the thin flake you see first). Climb this until it peters out to unprotected knob climbing which takes you to the next ledge up. Although the climbing looks easy, we rejoined WFD, so I can't speak to the grade on the second pitch.
Pitch 1: Starts off of the same belay anchors as "West Face Direct", at the far climbers right of Zocalo Ledge. Instead of West Face Direct, take the diagonal finger crack up and right until you top out on a ledge. The crux is very balancy, with the finger crack being flared and quite dirty. My partner called it "awkward", and I guess she is right, but I still thought it was fun. Bolted anchors await you. I originally voted this pitch as 5.9+ as that was the grade found on Daniel's topo at sekiclimbing.com. After leading it twice, I don't feel ashamed in calling this thing solid 5.10. Grades are subjective, so be careful on this climb and feel free to vote differently than I did.
Pitch 2: Move the belay approximately 30 feet to climbers right along the ledge and find the second flake system (not the thin flake you see first). Climb this until it peters out to unprotected knob climbing which takes you to the next ledge up. Although the climbing looks easy, we rejoined WFD, so I can't speak to the grade on the second pitch.
Aproach
Go up the stairs from the parking lot until you get to your first open view to the right. Hop the small rock railing and locate the bolt anchors skiers left. First rap is single rope with a 70. Head down skiers left and around the corner to the ledge you can see with bushes. Walk to the far end of this ledge and locate the next anchors, this time on the floor of the ledge. Two raps straight down from here takes you to Zocalo ledge. The first wrap requires double ropes, the second does not. Traverse again to the far climbers right side of this ledge. You will see bolted anchors for the belay at the start of the finger crack.
Same anchors as for the start of "West Face Direct"
Same anchors as for the start of "West Face Direct"
Photos
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