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Routes in West Face
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Aerial Boundaries T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Between the Thighs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Digging in the Dirt T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Enigma T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gray Squirrel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Holy Grail T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Levity's End T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Link, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lizards Kiss, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Meteora T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Modern Guilt T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Offramp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pennies On The Patio T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pressure Sensitive T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Sunlight and Shadow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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West Face Direct T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Whistler T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Hickey, Cook, Ardesch 1985 |
| Page Views: | 914 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Chad Namolik on Jul 1, 2019 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures
Details
The SeKi Rock Climbing website nps.gov/seki/planyourvisit/… has current closures as well as other climbing information for visitors.
Moro Rock (SEKI) and Chimney Rocks usually have nesting closures every year from April 1 to August 15.
As of April 2016, all routes are open to climbing.
Moro Rock (SEKI) and Chimney Rocks usually have nesting closures every year from April 1 to August 15.
As of April 2016, all routes are open to climbing.
Protection
Doubles 0.3”-2”. Single 0.2” & 3” to 5”. Nuts, 8-10 alpine draws. 60m or 70m rope.
*need two ropes to rap Offramp, unfortunately, though featured clean low 5th scrambling can make it w/ 1.
Description
Sustained at a moderate grade, exposed right from the start, this climb has good variety & good belay ledges. Climbing the first three pitches of this is the best way to link up with Between the Thighs (5.8, 2P). A good moderate link up, West Face Direct>Between the Thighs would be 5P’s and have a lot of 5.7,8,9 climbing but no 5.10. I haven’t done the top pitch or two West Face direct though it looks like some nice 5.10 steep crack/flake climbing, though it also looks to be filled w/ lichen.
P1: 5.9 100’ gets hard and exposed right off the ground. A finger crack (0.3”) provides some pro, then a hard, reachy traverse right to a corner that has easier climbing and good pro. Could also stay straight up on Sunlight & Shadow (5.9+) which is a hard, flaring finger crack. This pitch ends at bolts on Raven Ledge.
*move belay 80’ right.
P2: 5.8 130’ starts in a clean wide crack (5”,4”) with knobs for feet, to a horizontal crack, a mantel move up to a bolt, trend right to a small crack, then build belay up on a shallow ledge at a steep wall. ***Moving right 80’ of 5.6 would link up with the 5.10 crack/corner pitches of Levitys End.
P3: 5.7 130’ a left traverse with a shallow ledge, big dirty blocks, and some crack for pro. Sew it up here for your follower with finger, hand size cams & long slings. Thrash through the bushes at the end and head to Tier of Vision Ledge to build an anchor at the base of a short finger crack.
*From here trend left and climb the steep crack/ flake to finish on West Face Direct or straight up the finger crack to the roof on Between the Thighs.
*From the Patio, do a sketchy 5th class scramble left, or climb Enigma, Digging in the Dirt, or Pennies on the Patio.
P1: 5.9 100’ gets hard and exposed right off the ground. A finger crack (0.3”) provides some pro, then a hard, reachy traverse right to a corner that has easier climbing and good pro. Could also stay straight up on Sunlight & Shadow (5.9+) which is a hard, flaring finger crack. This pitch ends at bolts on Raven Ledge.
*move belay 80’ right.
P2: 5.8 130’ starts in a clean wide crack (5”,4”) with knobs for feet, to a horizontal crack, a mantel move up to a bolt, trend right to a small crack, then build belay up on a shallow ledge at a steep wall. ***Moving right 80’ of 5.6 would link up with the 5.10 crack/corner pitches of Levitys End.
P3: 5.7 130’ a left traverse with a shallow ledge, big dirty blocks, and some crack for pro. Sew it up here for your follower with finger, hand size cams & long slings. Thrash through the bushes at the end and head to Tier of Vision Ledge to build an anchor at the base of a short finger crack.
*From here trend left and climb the steep crack/ flake to finish on West Face Direct or straight up the finger crack to the roof on Between the Thighs.
*From the Patio, do a sketchy 5th class scramble left, or climb Enigma, Digging in the Dirt, or Pennies on the Patio.
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