Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 8 pitches
FA: Daniel, Vitaliy, Brian, Chris - 2016-2019
Page Views: 570 total · 113/month
Shared By: Brian Prince on Apr 23, 2019
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

A great, fully independent line up the west face. Comprised of three standout pitches - one at 5.10 (P2), one 5.11 (P4), and one 5.12 (P6) - with some easier "filler" pitches in between. The crux is a short boulder problem and could easily be pulled through, or the pitch could be skipped entirely by joining Modern Guilt for half a pitch. This would make the overall rating 5.11c.

Do this route if looking for some safe, challenging, and wild climbing on Moro that offers more cracks and a far less sustained nature than its neighbor to the right. Or crag the 4th pitch if you find yourself on twilight zone ledge. Or, like with most of Moro, mix and match as you want

P1 - 45m 5.8 - choose your own adventure up to the base of the corner system. build a belay in some blocks.

P2 - 50m 5.10d - This is a wild, long, and continuously engaging pitch. The start is a bit crappy cause I trundled a 15ft tall pillar and the crack that was left behind is a little mossy/chossy. A bolt here would be nice. Hopefully someday soon, but it's not too bad. Get up to the roof, undercling out left and bust some moves to get to a cool jug. Clip a bolt then quest up for the rest of the pitch on steep jugs which are interrupted a few times by thinner cruxes. At the top, after a juggy layback flake, build a belay at one bolt and a #0.5. 8 bolts or so and full rack on this pitch.

P3 - 5.9 45m - Traverse right along a horizontal crack and knobs. When the crack ends, head up and right following bolts and cool knobs to gain Twilight Zone ledge.

P4 - 5.11c 25m - Rowdy! Head up the green colored flake/corner above. 2 bolts protect the bottom of it where it's still hollow. Great finger locks and stemming lead to an alcove of sorts where you can get a high piece and a very active rest. Then summon the courage to launch for the lip of a visor-like roof (it's a jug), match, throw a heel and mantle on up. 2 bolt anchor waiting for you. Amazing! You will likely be pumped (if your'e like me), but for sure will be grinning hardcore!

P5 - More of a move the belay pitch. Head up the chimney type thing and then walk through a big bush. Head up to the base of the corner to a nice stance and gear anchor.

P6 - 5.12b 45m - A Journey! If you have to pull through the crux moves, this pitch is still very much worth climbing (and would be 10+ish). The corner system above is steep and wild. It starts out as perfect hands but is an angling, awkward as heck, blue collar kind of thing. Pay your dues and continue up to a nice sit down rest. The corner then blanks out but magical jugs appear on the face out left, bolts protect. Higher, regain the corner and enjoy some great fingerlocking, stemming, and huge holds. Then the corner again blanks out, as does the face. Clip a bolt and execute the short but fierce boulder problem until the crack opens back up. Try and place more gear (save a tips piece and a #1) or just keep gunning! Gain a rail that offers an escape out right onto the face, clip a bolt above and then climb knobs up to the anchor.

P6/7 variation - 5.10/11 - from the big bush, keep heading right along an exposed horizontal crack that will lead you to a 2 bolt anchor on the left side of spice ledge and the bottom of P8 of Modern Guilt. Head up this pitch and through the crux until a bolt line leads left back to Meteora. Although, if you go this way, I think continuing on MG is the better finish. In that case, keep to the right line.

P7 - 5.7 20m - Sweet knobs lead left off the belay up to a 2 bolt anchor on a nice ledge. couple bolts and some finger size gear in a flake.

P8 - 5.8 50m - Choose your own adventure following one of a couple natural lines up to a ledge where you can walk off to the right (25ft. away from Modern Guilt top out). Can barely link with P7 with a 70

P8/9 alternative - 5.9 - A cleaner finish if you haven't had enough. Head straight left from the top of P7 and follow spaced out bolts for 2 pitches of knob and slab climbing to the top.

Location

The best approach is to rap Modern Guilt. 9 raps with one 70m. You can leave shoes at the top because Meteroa starts and tops out less than 100ft. left of Modern Guilt. You can also stash food/water on Twilight Zone Ledge on the way down. From the base of MG, scramble up a low angled corner to the left or bushwack down low and around to the left. Either way, gain a giant ledge system 50 ft. above the forest and look for the obvious, large, flake/corner weakness of the 2nd pitch.

Protection

singles of tiny. doubles 0.3 ->#2. single 3 and 4.

Photos