The Lizards Kiss
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Dave Daly and Deb Castro|
|Page Views:||1,545 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||Dave Daly on Nov 6, 2007|
|Admins:||M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Always check road conditions and peregrine closures Details
DescriptionOn 4 April, 2004, Deb Castro and Dave Daly established a new route on the northwest slabs of Moro Rock. There is no evidence to support the passage of other climbers or existing variations to any other routes on this section of Moro Rock.
Start at the right side of the northwest slabs (50 feet left of the steep wall of the West Face and left of the start to 'Rio Bravo'). Scramble up easy 4th class slabs for 30 feet to a narrow ledge. Once at the ledge, locate a crack that ascends to a headwall with a block. Ascend the crack (thin pro: #3 Stopper) to the block. Climb the right side of the block (.5 Camelot Jr. helpful) and make an awkward mantle up and over (5.8) to open slabs. Climb the slab (5.6) up and slightly left. Pass two horizontal flaring cracks (#2 and #3 Camelot) and climb 160' feet to a ledge. (Note: this is the same ledge from which the last rappel was made). Belay from here.
Move the belay 50 yards up and left near the end of the terrace, just below a water polished right facing corner (possibly weeping water in the early season). Start here and climb the corner (5.7) for 40 feet (pro to #1 Camelot). Once at the top of the corner, exit to the left and then head straight up on open slab for 80 feet (5.6/5.7....no pro!). The top of the slab becomes slight debris and moss covered...use caution!. Locate a large boulder and belay from here. Either conitnue to the top of the northwest shoulder for several pitches by ascending 'Link' (5.6) and 'Holy Grail; (5.7) or relocate the 3rd/4th class ramp and ascend the approach trail.
As a note of caution, be very watchful for rattlesnakes and fire ants. This party experienced a large population of fire ants all throughout the lower sections of the northwest slabs.