Type: Sport, TR, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 265 total · 8/month
Shared By: kenr on Jun 24, 2018
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

You & This Route


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Description

Lots of fun interesting moves in the lower halt, but then the rest is easier.

The lower half is steeper than the routes to its right, but the holds are positive, so might feel less difficult to someone with indoor gym experience and arm strength.

top-roping . . .
The lower half can be Top-Roped from the top anchor for the route "Peyra Juana" in sector "Dalle Grise" and then the finish to that anchor is interesting but unprotected (and needs cleaning).
The entire route could be top-roped (with directionals) from the "Jannu" top anchor, after leading "Jannu" or "Makalu" or some other route leading to one of those anchors - (see "top-roping" in the Description for the route "Jannu 1957" for other ways to reach its top anchor).

directions . . .
Start up through the steep stuff, then gets a bit easier. Next Left around corner onto non-steep slab with stratified holds.

After this the route could get confusing, because when reach the second bolt on that slab, the only hardware visible above is the top anchor for the route "Peyra Juana" (to the left) - but there are no intermediate bolts leading to that anchor. There is less-diffficult climbing up toward right of that anchor, then rising traverse left to reach the Peyra Juana anchor.
. . . (What would make a better route is if there were internediate bolts installed for leading directly to the Peyra Juana anchor).

. . . But with the current situation, seems like the best finish should be . . .
Step right off the stratified slab onto a horizontal vegetated ledge and immediately find a bolt (so now could reach back and unclip the previous bolt). Next go horizontal right about 8 feet (passing above the top anchor for the route "Marketing Réseau), then join the route "Jannu 1957" (just above its crux) to finish up (trending slightly right) to reach the "Jannu" top anchor.
. . . (Or no greater difficulty to climb directly up the ridge which forms right edge of the slab, almost up to the level of the Jannu top anchor, but this is vegetated and unprotected as of 2018).

. . . (The topo photo in the Rolland 2015 print guidebook seems to show this route continuing roughly straight up the slab to its own specific anchor at roughly the same level as the anchor for "Janu". But there are no intermediate bolts visible above on the slab, and so far we have not seen a specific anchor from our other reconnaisance above and below the cliff, or from climbing this or other nearby routes).

Location

On the left side of the left half of this cliff, where the name of the route is painted on the rock.

- - > See on this Photo

. . . . also on this Photo

Protection

Wedge bolts (guess diameter 10mm) for Leading up to a join the upper section of the route "Jannu 1957", which has a two-bolt anchor with chain-connection and rappel ring.
We do not know the metal composition of the bolts or anchor hardware.

This route does not have its own distinct top anchor.

Unfortunately in 2018 we did not count the intermediate bolts for leading.

Photos

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