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> q. Rochers Oranges
Jannu 1957
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in q. Rochers Oranges
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Aretes du Couloir Orange S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fissure Sombre S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fraîchement Pressé TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Initiation Sombre TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Jannu 1957 S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Le consultant S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Le petit Prine de Lu S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Les miserables de Hugo Boss S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Makalu 1954 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Marketing réseau S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 508 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Jun 24, 2018 |
| Admins: | Luc-514, David Riley |
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Description
Lots of fun interesting moves up steep face, but one short sequence harder than the rest.
Crux is all positive holds with logical moves if see the sequence, but likely feels like intimidating 5.9+ when leading it on-sight.
top-roping . . .
The top anchor for Jannu could also be reached at difficulty 5.7 (with lots of interesting climbing) . . . by starting up the route "Peyra Juana" in sector "Dalle Grise". After reaching the two bolts just right of the right end of the first roof (instead of going up around the side of the roof then cutting back left above it), leave that route by traversing horizontal Right across a vegetated gully and around a corner to reach a bolt for the route "Le consultant" of sector "Rochers Oranges" (just above the lower crux sequences). Then finish that route, including where it later joins the final section of the route "Jannu" - (requires some longer slings and great care to reduce rope drag).
warning: If the leader is to be lowered from the Jannu anchor before the follower climbs, requires a 70-meter rope.
directions . . .
Roughly straight up, trending a bit left through the middle, then a bit right to the top anchor.
. . . (Though the crux move is more strenuous than "Makalu 1954", perhaps this route offers a "friendlier" start to a session of climbing on this wall).
name: The year of a reconnaissance expedition to the difficult Himalayan peak of Jannu (or "Kumbhakarna").
Crux is all positive holds with logical moves if see the sequence, but likely feels like intimidating 5.9+ when leading it on-sight.
top-roping . . .
The top anchor for Jannu could also be reached at difficulty 5.7 (with lots of interesting climbing) . . . by starting up the route "Peyra Juana" in sector "Dalle Grise". After reaching the two bolts just right of the right end of the first roof (instead of going up around the side of the roof then cutting back left above it), leave that route by traversing horizontal Right across a vegetated gully and around a corner to reach a bolt for the route "Le consultant" of sector "Rochers Oranges" (just above the lower crux sequences). Then finish that route, including where it later joins the final section of the route "Jannu" - (requires some longer slings and great care to reduce rope drag).
warning: If the leader is to be lowered from the Jannu anchor before the follower climbs, requires a 70-meter rope.
directions . . .
Roughly straight up, trending a bit left through the middle, then a bit right to the top anchor.
. . . (Though the crux move is more strenuous than "Makalu 1954", perhaps this route offers a "friendlier" start to a session of climbing on this wall).
name: The year of a reconnaissance expedition to the difficult Himalayan peak of Jannu (or "Kumbhakarna").
Location
In the middle of the left half of this cliff, where the name of the route is painted on the rock.
- - > See on this Photo
. . . . also on this Photo
- - > See on this Photo
. . . . also on this Photo
Protection
Wedge bolts (guess diameter 10mm) for Leading up to a two-bolt anchor with chain-connection and rappel ring.
We do not know the metal composition of the bolts or anchor hardware.
This anchor is about 2 meters right and slightly above from the top anchor for "Makalu 1954".
Unfortunately in 2018 we did not count the intermediate bolts for leading.
We do not know the metal composition of the bolts or anchor hardware.
This anchor is about 2 meters right and slightly above from the top anchor for "Makalu 1954".
Unfortunately in 2018 we did not count the intermediate bolts for leading.
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