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Routes in Rochers Oranges

Aretes du Couloir Orange S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fissure Sombre S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fraîchement Pressé TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jannu 1957 S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Le consultant S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Le petit Prine de Lu S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Les miserables de Hugo Boss S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Makalu 1954 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Marketing réseau S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Elevation: 5,077 ft
GPS: 44.974, 6.525 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 374 total · 77/month
Shared By: kenr on Jun 24, 2018
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514
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Description

Steep wall of quartzite, much almost vertical, some overhanging.
Faces South and SouthEast.

Name of this sector in French translates into English as "orange rocks".

Descent: Obvious way is just to rappel down whatever route you just climbed. First problem with walking down off the top is that first you have to reach the top (see difficulties under "Top-Roping"), and find the (unmarked) start of the descent route. Then since few people use the descent route, might be obstructed by pricker bushes (perhaps bring your own cutters?)

Descent route starts with a gully to the Right (East). Gully soon broadens, but avoid the temptation to try the more direct way close to the east side of the cliff. Instead at first stay high, along the base of  the cliff above, with feet mostly on rock holds. Sometimes need to find rock holds for hands. After a long gentle descending traverse, can go down steeper on open grass. Then traverse back west toward the side of the cliff. Finally down the low gully diagonal under the cliff.

Top-Roping: In theory it might be possible to hike/scramble up the descent route, then scramble down to the top anchor, but really this is not a good idea, because . . .
(1) Extra work because the descent route goes much higher than the top anchors of the routes.
(2) Extra pain, if the descent route has not recently been pruned of prickly plants.
(3) Difficult to know how to find the top of the route you want from above, because the top area is rather big and wide, so not easy to get down to where can see what's below on the ground.
(4) Loose rock on the slopes down to the top anchors.
(5) Exposed climbing on dirty rock down to the  top anchors.

Better to first lead an easier route, then figure out a safe way to get to the anchor of a route nearby.

note: Many of the bolts and hangers are Plated steel (not stainless / inox) installed before 2007.

warning: Loose or breaking rock is still a possibility in this area. If possible the belayer or other members of the party ought to stand far away from anywhere near underneath the climber.

Getting There

It's just right around the corner from sector "Dalle Grise".

- - > See on this Photo

. . . . or on this Photo

After walking up the obvious trail from Parking, where the trail up to the Dalle Blanche goes left up steep, continue gentle right until below the steep wall of this sector.
Or from the obvious platform at the base of the Dalle Blanche sector, walk steep down a little, then see a path horizontal left into a scramble move over an obstructing rock. Next the trail goes down rightward below the "Dalle Grise" slab and left around the corner to base of the steep wall.

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