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Pantalon Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 5,068 ft | 1,545 m |
| GPS: |
44.97391, 6.52435 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 27,405 total · 275/month | |
| Shared By: | kenr on Jun 23, 2018 | |
| Admins: | David Riley, Luc-514 |
Description
Rather interesting quartzite rock. Focus on tall single-pitch with easy+moderate difficulty (5.0 - 5.10 range). Fairly modern style of bolting for Lead and modern anchor hardware for descent -- with most of the modern replacements installed by Pierre Jean Doulat.
Simple access by non-difficult trail.
Big view across the river valley to the Serre Chevalier ski hills and the northeast Ecrins mountains, often with snow visible. Some noise from the highway (popular with motorcycle tourists), but not so close that it disturbs communication.
With the opening of "Aretes du Couloir Orange" in 2018, there is a 2-pitch 30-meter route.
info: As of 2018 ... the print guidebook Briancon Climbs (2015 edition) by Rolland (Yann, Jonathan, Martine, and Jean-Jacques) is the only source we know for details about routes here.
Might someday (say after 2018) be more current info on as local ciimbers start editing the
Pantalon page on CampToCamp.org (c2c)
. . . (created by kenr of MP).
note: Many of the bolts and hangers are Plated steel (not stainless / inox) installed before 2007.
warning: Loose or breaking rock is still a possibility in some parts of this area. If possible the belayer or other members of the party ought to stand far away from anywhere near underneath the climber.
Sectors of this area include:
* Oranges d'Ouest
* Ouest Gauche (2 routes)
* Ouest Centrale (2 routes)
* Ouest Droite
* Aiguille Haute (3 routes)
* Aiguille Moyenne (3 routes)
* Aiguille Basse (6 routes)
* Dalles Blanches Gauche (19 routes)
* Dalle Blanche Droite (5 routes + 4 short beginner routes)
* Dalle Grise (4 routes)
* Rochers Oranges (10 routes)
The first four sectors listed are not in the modern print guidebook, but there are old pitons on at least two routes in the "Ouest Centrale" sector.
Getting There
This climbing area is about 0.7 mile East from the town of Le Monetier-les-Bains, and about 0.3 mile NorthEast from the main highway D1091 connecting from the city of Grenoble and Col du Lauteret pass to the city of Briancon.
Driving: From the town of Monetier-les-Bains go on the main D1091 highway about 0.5 mile / 0.8 km, first down East then SouthEast. See sign on NE side of highway for "Site Escalade Pantalon". Turn Left onto asphalt street and go up NE about 80 meters / 250 ft. Where the street curves sharp left, turn off right onto dirt/gravel and park (GPS latitude longitude approx N44.9734 E6.5194).
Hiking: From Parking follow well-packed trail first NE about 120 m / 380 ft gentle and across a small creek. Next the trail makes a rising traverse East about 330 m / 1100 ft to around (GPS N44.9739 E6.5243). Then spot your desired cliff sector and hike up steep to reach it.
Effort: uphill +85 meters vertical over 550 m distance (+280 vertical feet over 0.35 mile).
Time: typical range 15-25 minutes.
Routes
For easier grasping of the range of this whole area, and convenience in printing, here's our list of routes + short descriptions (which does not agree with recent print guidebook as of 2018.
Abbreviations:
. . . "x7" = bolts count 7 intermediate protection for leading (grimper a tete).
. . . . . "xx" = count of bolts not known.
. . . "TR" = Top-Rope setup possible (moulinette).
. . . "7b" = difficulty rating Euro Sport (cotation).
. . . . . "C0" = with simple clean Aid.
. . . **** = quality of climbing: highest is 4 stars, low is 0 or 1 star.
. . . . . **+ = quality between 2 and 3 stars.
Aiguille Haute
. . L'envolée .. . . . . . . . .: xx . . .: 5a . : *+
. . Stawug . . . . . . . . . . .: xx . . .: 5b . : **+
. . Je . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .: xx TR : 5c+ : **+
Aiguille Moyenne
. . Face sud-ouest . . . . . . : x2 . : 4c : *+
. . Bord gauche face sud . : TR : 6c+ : **+
. . Couloir oblique SE . . . .: TR : 6a+ : **+
Aiguille Basse
. . les Gradins . . . . . .: xx TR : 5b C0 : **+
. . Crête gauche . . . .: xx TR : 5b C0 : *+
. . l'Ancienne voie . . .: xx TR : 5a . . . : **+
. . la Voie Courte . . . : xx TR : 4c . . . : *
. . Renflem orange G : xx TR : 6b+ . . : **
. . Renflem orange D .: . . TR : 6a+ . . : **
Dalles Blanches Gauche
dalle Sud-ouest = sw
. . Fissure gauche .. . . : . . TR : 4b . : **+
. . Les Papys . . . . . . . : x4 TR : 4b/c : **+
. . Les Mamies . . . . . . : x6 TR : 3+ . : ***
. . . . (separated by ridge) .
dalle de Gauche = gg
. . gg Bord gauche . . . . ..: . . TR : 4b/c .: **+
. . gg Face gauche . . . . . : . . TR : 6a+ . : **
. . Face centrale gauche : x4 TR : 6b . . : **+
. . Face centrale droite . .: x5 TR : 6a . .: **
. . gg Droite pressée . . . .: . . TR : 6a . . : **+
. . gg Bord droit . . . . . . . : x5 TR : 4c . . : **
. . . . (separated by broken gully) .
dalle Centrale Gauche = cg
. . cg Langue gauche . . : x3 TR : 3+ : **
. . cg Bord gauche . . . . .: . . TR : 4c : **+
. . Mam'skatanas . . . . . .: x5 TR : 4c : **+
. . cg Face droite . . . . . .: . .. TR : 3+ : **+
. . . . (separated by orange roof) .
dalle Centrale Droite = cd
. . Arete de toit orange . : . . TR : 4a : ***
. . Papy perfo . . . . . . . . : xx . . .: 4a : **+
. . cd Côté droit . . . . . . .: . . TR : 4c : ***
. . . . (separated big orng bulge) .
dalle de Droite = dd
. . Initiation . . . . . . . . . . . : xx . . : 3+ : **
. . Confirmation . . . . . . . .: xx . . : 4a : **
. . La Tour . . . . . . . . . . . . : xx . . : 4b : **
Dalle Blanche Droite
. . (La traversée des demi-dieux) :
. . Amateur d'abimes . . . : xx . . . : 5a : **+
. . Jeu guerre des lapins : xx TR : 6b : **
. . 1628 film . . . . . . . . . . : xx . . . : 5b+ : **
. . De l'uncm à l'UCPA . . : xx . . : 4b C0 : ***+
. . Ne m'appelez jamais . : xx . . .: 3+ : ***
short beginner routes
. . (Bécassine) :
. . Spirou . . . . . . . . . . . : xx . . : 3+ : **
. . (Pif) :
. . Titeuf . . . . . . . . . . . . : xx TR 3+ : **
Dalle Grise
. . Haute Cheminée . . . . . : . . TR : 5c : **+
. . Tete d'Ail . . . . . . . . . . . : xx TR : 5b : ***
. . Peyra Juana . . . . . . . . : xx . . . : 4b : ***
. . Along Comes Mary . . . : . . TR : 3+ : **
Rochers Oranges
. . Le consultant . . . . . . . .: xx TR : 6a . : **
. . Marketing réseau . . . . .: xx TR : 5c+ : **+
. . Jannu 1957 . . . . . . . . . : xx TR : 5c+ : **
. . Fraîchement Pressé : . : . . TR : 6a . : **+
. . Makalu 1954 . . . . . . . . : xx . . . : 6a . : ***
. . Le petit Prine de Lu . . .: xx TR : 6c . : **+
. . Les miserables HugoB : xx TR : 6b+ : **
. . Aretes Couloir Orange .: x12 . .: 5a . : ***
. . Initiation Sombre : . . . . : . . TR : 6c+ : **+
. . Fissure Sombre . . . . . .: xx TR : 5c+ : **+
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