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Aigulle Moyenne Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in h. Aigulle Moyenne

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bord gauche de la face sud TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Couloir oblique de sud-est TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Face sud-ouest S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

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Elevation:	5,056 ft	1,541 m
GPS:	44.97399, 6.52402 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	1,569 total · 23/month
Shared By:	kenr on Jul 3, 2019
Admins:	David Riley, Luc-514 Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Small tower of quartzite, separated from the wall above it by a chasm.

note: Some of the bolts and hangers are Plated steel (not stainless / inox) installed before 2007.

Top-Roping? Cannot walk or scramble up to top (or down from it). So good to do some advance planning.

Two-bolt anchor at top has no connecting chain or cord, and No rappel ring + No lower-off carabiner.

The bolt top anchor is set back on gentle rock well away from the top of steeper climbing routes. So to avoid rope abrasion while doing "normal" top-roping with belay from the bottom, need to bring a static line (less than 10 meters) or several long slings.

note: Many holds as of 2019 are vegetated (much moss) or dirty -- difficult to use (especially when a bit wet). Consider bringing a nut-removal tool (or other tools) to help with cleaning.

note: Many of the bolts and hangers might be Plated steel (not stainless / inox) installed before 2007.

warning: Loose or breaking rock is still a possibility around here. If possible the belayer or other members of the party ought to stand far away from anywhere near underneath the climber.

Getting There

This sector is above and a bit right from the sector "Aiguille Basse".
So can reach it by following the instructions to hike up to the platform at right side of Aiguille Basse (and below the SW face of Dalle Blanche Gauche). Then scramble up the gully above right from Aiguille Basse (and below left from Aiguille Moyenne). Or partway up the gully below left from Aiguille Moyenne.