Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Sykes, Slattery
Page Views: 136 total · 22/month
Shared By: Eli . on Jun 11, 2018
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Tips Terror climbs through a thin face to the left of Syko's Arete, right of Numb from the waist down. The first pitch tackles a thin seam protected by bolts leading to a ledge. The second pitch goes over a slabby bulge protected by two bolts up towards another headwall with a right leaning diagonal crack. Follow this crack up and right to a two bolt anchor. Two bolted rap stations will take you to the ground.

You can also climb this in one long pitch, though it is not recommended. The best way to enjoy this rock climb is to do the first pitch, and put in a directional at the top of the ledge, then traverse off right to the anchor for Syko's Arete, and lower back to the ground.

This is an area classic, I think it is even a touch better than Syko's Arete.

Location

On the main wall of Profile Cliff. This is the middle of the three bolted lines identified a large left leaning diagonal crack.

Protection

single rack many bolts. Gear anchor for the top of P1, or do it in one pitch, or do only pitch one and traverse off right.

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Eli .
GMC3500
  5.10+
Eli .   GMC3500
  5.10+
The guidebook gives this thing 10c, I felt like it was 11- so I split the difference. Super safe, get after it. Jun 11, 2018
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Eli, why do you not recommend the second pitch? Oct 1, 2018
Eli .
GMC3500
  5.10+
Eli .   GMC3500
  5.10+
The second pitch’s crux is above a mean ledge, and the top is extremely dirty and has some loose rock. It’s not worth the 2 raps back to the ground. Much better to do it as a cragging route. Oct 1, 2018