Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 949 total · 46/month
Shared By: Matt Wenger on Jun 5, 2018 with improvements by Doug Mavor
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route


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Description

This route was put up by local grey haired (and tech impaired) climbers. It is a perfect way to link the classic lower climbs of the Watchtower and Pineapple Buttresses with popular climbs in the Sparerib area. Best to not leave equipment at the base of Silver Foxes as the direct walk back is difficult.

Pitch 1: (5.7, 120') Climb 20' through a small overlap, then follow bolts up surprisingly good rock to the anchor. Fun pitch! 11 bolts, a few cams 0.2" - 1", chain anchor. 

Pitch 2: (5.8, 90') Continue face climbing; avoid a loose, ledgy area by following the bolt line to the right up to the anchor. 8 bolts, one 2" or 3" cam, chain anchor.

Optional P2 belay: Climb 25' past P2 chains, and belay on the massive ledge right below the crux bulge to watch the excitement at the crux bulge. 1" and 4" cams for the belay.

Pitch 3: (5.10a/b, 140') The money pitch! Delightful face climbing with one somewhat tricky and airy 5.10 bulge move. 7 bolts and a few cams 0.1"-0.5". GEAR ANCHOR, 2-3" cams, and small stoppers, or just sling one of several bomber boulders/horns.

Pitch 3 alternative: (5.6) Fun, easy trad climb to the left of pitch 3. Gear from 0.75-4".

Descent: Walk off 5 min uphill to the base of Sparerib and the main climbers trail.  Pitches 1 and 2 can each be rappelled with a 70 m rope.

Location

Approach: located on 2nd tier of the Watchtower, 1 minute uphill walk above the top of Watchtower Standard Route or a 4 minute traverse from the top of Pineapple Thunderpussy. Can also access by hiking up the loose gully to the North of Pineapple and then traversing left to the base (not recommended).

Protection

12 quickdraws, single set of cams from 0.1-3" (4" optional, good for pitch 3a), chain anchors (P1 and P2 only). Gear/sling block anchor P3.

If you don't mind 5.8 slight runouts, you can basically forgo the trad gear and run this as a sport climb.

Photos