Drama Queen

This route starts just above and left of the Pineapple Thunderpussy approach gully and about 100ft right of the popular Silver Foxes.  It finishes near the same spot as Silver Foxes but does not share any of the climbing.  

P1)  On the right side of the wall, climb slab over a small bulge with a single bolt, continue straight up to gain the nice crack.  Follow this crack through the roof on perfect hands.  Above the roof, pass a tree by moving left and into a corner. Climb the steep left side of the corner stemming out to the right side occasionally for stances.  Gear is a little tricky in this section but sufficient.  There are good holds, especially side pulls, but none of the holds are very obvious.  A bit of a cryptic sequence.  Pull up onto a good ledge with a two bolt anchor.  The top out has some dubious looking rock on the right side.  Topping out on the left side is recommended.  5.9 35m

Alt P1)  Start about 20ft left and up a dirt hill on a small but nice rock ledge.  Climb the featured grey slab and fun cracks up to a small ledge with pinkish colored rock.  Trend up and right aiming for the middle of the roof, left of the standard P1 hand crack.  Pull over the roof on long reaches on good holds with a single bolt.  Once over the roof, step left and take the thin but easy corner crack straight up until it connects with the standard P1 finish.  Watch for loose rock in the roof section.  10b 30m

P2)  This pitch is really just a glorified belay move to the base of the P3 corner.  Make a couple of easy moves above the anchor to gain a large ledge, step left to a low angle cleft in the cliff just behind a big tree.  Easy climbing leads to a stance and a two bolt anchor.  5.5 15m

P3)  Pick up and move the belay left across a large ledge to the base of a colorful corner.  This corner forms the right side of the third pitch of Silver Foxes.  Climb the corner crack surmounting three overhangs that get progressively harder.  The first is right off the ground.  Then climb fun slab moves to the second small roof with great jamming and some hidden edges deep in the crack to help pull over the top.  The third roof is the biggest but also has the best holds for pulling over.  Finish at the top of the crack at a two bolt anchor.  5.9 20m

Descent: Rap the route with a single 60m rope or walk up and carry on to the base of Spare Rib.  Connect Drama Queen with either Watchtower or Pineapple Thunderpussy on the first tier and Spare Rib on the upper tier for a big moderate outing all on gear. 

Note: The 35m standard P1 can be rapped with a single-60 if you escape left to the start of the Alternate P1, but just barely, watch your ends. 

From the top of Pineapple Thunderpussy hike left along the trail a short distance.  From the top of Watchtower, hike right on the trail and go past Silver Foxes about 100 feet.  There is a rock retaining wall on the trail just below the standard P1 start.  

Standard rack, slings. Nice to have a #4 for the last roof on P3.