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Routes in 11.5 - The Sugar Cookie

Donkey Way, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Evil Sede S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
First Blood S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grandpa Joe’s Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Silverback Arete S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sixty Forty T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Truth, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Well Chuffed S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wilde T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Brian Ketron, Ryan Kelly, Nate Kerr
Page Views: 79 total · 23/month
Shared By: Brian Ketron on Apr 4, 2018
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description

Beautiful! 30' of 5.11 fingers leads to some thin, bolted face climbing (crux). Clip more bolts up and left onto a gorgeous blunt arete,  then steep stemming to an anchor at 100'.

Location

This route suffers from the fact that it is a 2nd pitch to either First Blood, or Silverback Arete, both of which are much more difficult than Sixty Forty.
The first ascent party accessed this route by climbing The Truth, then lower/swing to the left, to the bottom anchor of Sixty Forty. This is also the top anchor for First Blood and Silverback.

Protection

30' of finger sized pieces to 11 bolts, to a 2 bolt anchor.

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