Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ed Barry, Rick Cashner (1979), Brian Ketron
Page Views: 310 total · 15/month
Shared By: tallmark515 on Apr 2, 2017 with updates from Brian Ketron
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Start this route with a 3 bolt variation (11b) which continues up and left into a large flake and to a large pedestal (stance). This variation adds 40 feet of high quality face climbing. Alternatively, there is a 3rd class scramble around the corner to the left.

From the pedestal above the flake, place high gear (nuts and blue alien size) and punch it up to good finger locks (5.11) in a 50 foot splitter finger crack (mostly .4 and .5 Camalot).

Either stop at the anchor or continue past a bolt and through a small roof (11+) and up a crack to another bolted belay.
80m rope required to lower off.

Location

From the "Staging area" at the base of the Sugar Cookie, start at the leftmost bolted line (of the three bolted lines) on the wall or scramble up 3rd class to the left to access a pedestal at the start of an obvious finger crack.

Protection

Doubles from purple Metolius to #2 Camalot

Photos

To climb the true Joe's Garage, start up left via 3rd class ledges. At about 8' before the anchor at 90', traverse left and move around the roof, clmb 5.11 for 40' to an anchor on a big ledge.
The second pitch goes 5.9 up from here.

Grandpa's Garage (a variation) is the 3 bolt start to the same crack and continue past the point where Joe's traverses left, up to an anchor below the roof. 5.11b

Yet another variation continues past, clipping Grandpa's anchor with a shoulder length sling, at the roof a reachy clip gets you another bolt. Pull the roof, and continue up Joe's 5.11 crack to the anchor on the big ledge (end of Joe's Garage first pitch).
This variation called Grandpa Joe's Direct is 5.11d Dec 10, 2017
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.11+
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.11+
Hey Brian, so is the route I described actually Grandpa’s Garage? And is the 5.11 roof above the anchor that is pictured? Dec 10, 2017
You did the 3 bolt variation start, and clipped the Grandpa's Garage anchor.
To do original Joe's, 3rd class start to the top of the block (you are now on top of the 3 bolt start), clmb the splitter, but B4 the anchor, go left and skirt the roof, then back right up the splitter dihedral to the anchor at 45meters. This is Joe's Garage 1stpitch Dec 17, 2017
Yes you did Grandpa's (just an 11b variation to Joe's). The bolt and roof above the anchor is the 11d roof variation to Joe's. Dec 17, 2017
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.11+
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.11+
Description updated. Dec 26, 2017