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Routes in 11.5 - The Sugar Cookie

Donkey Way, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Evil Sede S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
First Blood S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Grandpa Joe’s Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Silverback Arete S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sixty Forty T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Truth, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Well Chuffed S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wilde T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Brian Ketron, Ryan Kelly
Page Views: 79 total · 79/month
Shared By: Brian Ketron on Apr 3, 2018
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description

An amazing pitch! Technical face and thin crack climbing leads to a sustained lieback and stemming dihedral.
Crux is thin liebacking with high feet at 75'.
Glory crack jugs to the top.
One of the best of it's grade.

Location

Climb an approach pitch (40' of Donkey Way, then veer right passing Silverback anchors, and up to a bushy ledge and a 2 bolt anchor at 90') 5.9.

Protection

Lots of pieces in .4 to .75 range. Nuts work well in the many pods. Bolted anchor at 100'

Photos

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Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
thanks for putting all these routes up and adding them here! Apr 7, 2018
Ryan Kelly
El Portal
Ryan Kelly   El Portal
Dudely. If these climbs were in Yosemite, they would be so classic 4 days ago

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