Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches
GPS: 39.94933, -105.2859
FA: Alec Sharp
Page Views: 920 total · 9/month
Shared By: Ross Swanson on Jan 6, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

P1. Below the slot under the summit, head up mixed terrain to cracks leading to very nice 15 foot dihedral (5.8). Continue up multiple cracks and a tree to a broken ramp on the right side below the slot, ~150 feet.

P2. In the slot, climb the right side of a thin crack, the fixed nut is mine :-(
Burst up to a good horizontal below roof, #3 blue and #0.75 green. The rock is a tad crumbly for a short section of Hor but good everywhere else.

You're on the clock here with the pump factor kicking in. Layback or stem the wide crack on the right. I didn't see the stem and did a short, runout layback until you can get a stance in the bottom of the wide crack, place your gold #2 Camalot. Step & stem left to the route namesake an unusual eroded chockstone and up placing your purple Camalot.

Descent: we did not see a quick way to get to the rap station, so we rapped the route, 1st webbing jammed in a slot, 2nd off the tree about halfway up. Doing the crux as a layback I thought was harder than 10c, the pump factor was great.

Location Suggest change

Below the summit on west face of Jam Crack Spire is a slot. On the north side below the slot is an overhanging, inclined roof with a wide crack on its right side. Leading to the roof is small crack also on the right side.

Protection Suggest change

SR to #4 + small gear for crack under roof. We took a #5 camolot but could get buy w/o. A yellow & purple camolot above crux.

Photos

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