Fear Of Flying
Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||J. Erickson, C. Stanley, 1975|
|Page Views:||355 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Nov 7, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionA pretty compelling line up top, but unfortunately has some detractors down low. Overall worth doing, but not a destination climb if considered as a single target.
The first pitch winds its way up a left-facing corner past several trees and ledges which turn out to be surprisingly easy to navigate. The chunky rock at the ledge above is a challenge to find the right combination of comfort and good gear from which to belay. This area is the route's biggest detractor, but could be skipped entirely with a 70m rope, and probably with a 60m if you are careful about drag and such.
The crux of the route comes on P2 when a bulge to the right takes away the good feet and the jams are off-fingers. These are tricky moves on less than obvious holds and insecure jams, but it is protected well on medium stoppers or small-to-medium cams.
LocationFrom the West side of Jamcrack Spire, locate the highpoint of the South Summit. A wide, "inset" chimney splits this summit, with a broad dihedral leading up to a ledge just below that.
Fear Of Flying ascends the left-facing corner up to a band of broken rock below the slot, and then STAYS RIGHT to go up a fingers-thin hands crack that nearly splits the strong arete to the right. The route tops out just South of the South summit and a short 3rd class section puts you up on top of that.