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Routes in Jamcrack Spire

Fear Of Flying T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Left Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
North Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right One T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Southeast Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 654 total, 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 24, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Although Rossiter rated this line and the one to its right more conservatively than I and my partner thought they should be, he also did not show where these lines started, and thus, we feel he may not have done them the same way or had complete information on these routes. We felt this one was 5.9, not 5.8....

Climb up a few flakes to the left-most of the two nearly parallel left-slanting cracks on the West end of the North face. Place [gear], and continue up and left until the crack reaches the arete. Move up and right to the right crack (5.8) and then to the top on face holds (5.6, PG-13) or left around the corner and follow a winding handcrack (5.8) left and then back right to the summit.

Location

This route is the second crack down and left (East) of the NW arete of the Northern summit of the Jamcrack Spire.

Protection

A set of stoppers and cams to 4" plus some longer slings.

Photos

Rich Kelly
Boulder
  5.9+
Rich Kelly   Boulder
  5.9+
As of Oct 18, 2014 there is a sling w/2 biners around a large block to rappel off of to the base of this climb. Oct 21, 2014
The new (and wonderful) Haas guidebook calls this 10a (I think). Also, the webbing (as described in Haas) is no longer around (except for a crusty yellow piece stuck under the chockstone) and there is an old, sunbaked cordelette just laying around... not much to count on up there.

My partner and I would have slung something for the rappel, but you can easily downclimb the short upper east face to a healthy Ponderosa and scramble north to a gully from there... just skirt a bulge to the north of the summit and head on down. The exposure around this bulge convinced us that a down-lead was the best option. Anyway, you don't have to rappel to get down. Aug 23, 2010