Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown/undocumented (Bubb/Haas Free solo 9/06)
Page Views: 647 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 24, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


This route starts off perhaps 25 meters down and left from the Western edge of the North Face of the Jamcrack Spire. Start up a steep lelft-leaning handcrack (2.5", 5.8 to start), and get established in this as it widens... climb to the initial crack's end, and continue up and slightly right in a second system. The climbing is mostly 5.6 and heads up toward the arete on the right, criss-crossing it on a set of handcracks (5.8) or riding directly up it (5.7, exposed, less protected) to the top of the rock. This route shares some territory with the existing route, Right For Grapenuts (5.9+) on the upper part, but it is not known how much and depends upon the line you take (crack or direct face) anyway.

This could be a reasonably well-protected line most of the way, we believed.


Start in a low angle, wide crack down left of the routes 'Left Crack' and 'Right One' on the Western end of the North Face of the Jamcrack Spire and continue generally up and right in a system of handcracks.


A standard rack with cams to 4" and lots of long slings. Extra 2.5" and 3" units would be advised for a minimal runout.


Mark Roth
Mark Roth   Boulder
A #5 & #6 can be helpful for the wide part. Maybe worth bringing if you can use them on the other routes. Aug 2, 2017