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Routes in Jamcrack Spire

Fear Of Flying T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Holeistic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Left Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
North Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right One T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Southeast Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown/undocumented (Bubb/Haas Free solo 9/06)
Page Views: 600 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 24, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route starts off perhaps 25 meters down and left from the Western edge of the North Face of the Jamcrack Spire. Start up a steep lelft-leaning handcrack (2.5", 5.8 to start), and get established in this as it widens... climb to the initial crack's end, and continue up and slightly right in a second system. The climbing is mostly 5.6 and heads up toward the arete on the right, criss-crossing it on a set of handcracks (5.8) or riding directly up it (5.7, exposed, less protected) to the top of the rock. This route shares some territory with the existing route, Right For Grapenuts (5.9+) on the upper part, but it is not known how much and depends upon the line you take (crack or direct face) anyway.

This could be a reasonably well-protected line most of the way, we believed.

Location

Start in a low angle, wide crack down left of the routes 'Left Crack' and 'Right One' on the Western end of the North Face of the Jamcrack Spire and continue generally up and right in a system of handcracks.

Protection

A standard rack with cams to 4" and lots of long slings. Extra 2.5" and 3" units would be advised for a minimal runout.

Photos

Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
A #5 & #6 can be helpful for the wide part. Maybe worth bringing if you can use them on the other routes. Aug 2, 2017

More About North Wide Crack

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