Type: Trad, Aid, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 113 total · 8/month
Shared By: D-Storm on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

"Werewolf Bar Mitzvah...Spooky...Scary...Boys becoming men...Men becoming wolves..." —Tracy Jordan, 30 Rock

This overhanging seam has probably been aided at some point in the canyon's obscure history, though certainly not in a very long time, and now that contemporary monikers have been added to most of the previously unnamed climbs for the sake of documentation, I figure I might as well add this to the mix.

No Name is an area where I climbed as a teenager in the late 1990s, and the place has continued to provide me with worthwhile learning experiences. I used the pitch described here to bone up on my solo-aid skills before embarking on my first solo big wall in October 2017.

While only C2 (or A1 if you hammer a Lost Arrow or knifeblade piton or two), the crux moves all have ledgefall potential, hence the R rating. This little line has it all—steep, reachy moves on thin gear, including hand-placed beaks, and also a committing mantel off of a hook. Be careful where the upper crack becomes rotten and crumbly. If you can lead this lichenous, funky and intimidating pitch with confidence, you will probably enjoy the more straightforward aid pitches that can be found in classic areas like Zion and Yosemite.

Start on the steep, fractured rock to the right of the steel doors. A fat, old eyebolt and some bore holes (tricams work well) make for a convenient anchor if solo aiding. Move left into the overhanging seam above the doors. A shallow slot that accepts a small cam is the goal and is key for protecting the moves above. Follow the thin crack to the sloping ledge that bisects the wall (a large grappling hook is very helpful for gaining the ledge). If you've had enough, you can escape right along the ledge to a 5.8 corner and the anchors at its top; these anchors are the destination either way. Otherwise, continue up the thin crack that parallels the left side of an arete. This crack is covered in lichen and has a section that's very friable before you reach the security of good gear near the top.

At the top of the headwall, it's worth setting a directional anchor (finger- to hand-size cams) before traversing to the bolted anchor off the right end of the big ledge.

Location

The route starts in front of the steel doors.

Protection

Stoppers, micronuts, a beak or two, cams from the smallest size to 4", with doubles of the micro and finger sizes. Offset cams and tricams can be useful.

Photos

D-Storm
  5.6 C2
D-Storm  
  5.6 C2