Lightning Bolt Crack aka The Sickle
Avg: 2.8 from 22 votes
Routes in Poison Ivy Wall
|Afro Samurai T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Itch (Sumac Variation Unknown), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Lightning Bolt Crack aka The Sickle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Obscurity 5.11 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Poison Ivy? (Garden Salad) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Sumac T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Twin Cracks aka Railroad Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Werewolf Bar Mitzvah T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2 R|
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft|
|Page Views:||1,652 total, 10/month|
|Shared By:||Bryan Gall on Mar 12, 2004|
|Admins:||Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis crack is the obvious "lightning bolt" thin crack that trends left-to-right finishing in a vertical offwidth slot. Thin fingers, ring locks, and face moves traverse you up and right to a slot. Grunt up the slot, and cross a small slab to reach anchors in a roof above a large, triangular block. Watch your protection on the traverse. I've seen nuts blow out on a fall because of swing back left; thin cams work best. A direct line (5.10) is possible to the slot. Little protection exists for this option.
Per Jeremy Joseph: the crux is near the top when you find yourself in a deep, awkward crack. It is a very fun climb!
Eds. This is a combination of submissions put onto the 1st submission's page to reduce confusion and duplication within the database.
LocationThe Lightning Bolt Crack (another original name) is the third climb from the left on the Poison Ivy Wall.
The Poison Ivy Wall is located on the west side of No Name Creek approached by crossing the creek at the bridge and walking the utility road back downstream towards the obvious cliff band. Silver Doors cut into the cliff for Glenwood Springs' water diversion facility. Up and to the right of The Doors is the Poison Ivy Wall.
Per Jeremy Joseph: it is on the right side of the Poison Ivy Wall, directly to the right of the railroad tracks route.
ProtectionA standard granite rack (lean towards the smaller stuff).
Per Jeremy Joseph: small to medium gear, maybe one big cam for the top.
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