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Routes in Poison Ivy Wall

Afro Samurai T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Itch (Sumac Variation Unknown), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lightning Bolt Crack aka The Sickle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Obscurity 5.11 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Poison Ivy? (Garden Salad) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sumac T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twin Cracks aka Railroad Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Werewolf Bar Mitzvah T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2 R
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,652 total, 10/month
Shared By: Bryan Gall on Mar 12, 2004 with updates
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This crack is the obvious "lightning bolt" thin crack that trends left-to-right finishing in a vertical offwidth slot. Thin fingers, ring locks, and face moves traverse you up and right to a slot. Grunt up the slot, and cross a small slab to reach anchors in a roof above a large, triangular block. Watch your protection on the traverse. I've seen nuts blow out on a fall because of swing back left; thin cams work best. A direct line (5.10) is possible to the slot. Little protection exists for this option.

Per Jeremy Joseph: the crux is near the top when you find yourself in a deep, awkward crack. It is a very fun climb!

Eds. This is a combination of submissions put onto the 1st submission's page to reduce confusion and duplication within the database.

Location

The Lightning Bolt Crack (another original name) is the third climb from the left on the Poison Ivy Wall.

The Poison Ivy Wall is located on the west side of No Name Creek approached by crossing the creek at the bridge and walking the utility road back downstream towards the obvious cliff band. Silver Doors cut into the cliff for Glenwood Springs' water diversion facility. Up and to the right of The Doors is the Poison Ivy Wall.

Per Jeremy Joseph: it is on the right side of the Poison Ivy Wall, directly to the right of the railroad tracks route.

Protection

A standard granite rack (lean towards the smaller stuff).

Per Jeremy Joseph: small to medium gear, maybe one big cam for the top.

Photos

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D. Snyder
Golden, CO
  5.10c
D. Snyder   Golden, CO
  5.10c
Damn fun, technical movement and gear. Offsets not needed, just small nuts and cams to #0.75 Camalot. I thought the flare up high was easier than the first 20'. Oct 31, 2016
Pete F.
Carbondale, CO
  5.10c
Pete F.   Carbondale, CO
  5.10c
Great route. Seems harder and with less straightforward gear than Lone Pine Direct, but you don't need any offset gear. Sep 10, 2016
Sustained, thin, quality climbing. I didn't need any offset cams, but the small nuts helped out tremendously. Engaging. Aug 22, 2013
Great little route. It was super fun and had some pretty comitting moves on flaring locks. There were several moves that reminded me of the Northcutt variation in Eldo. I would not suggest leading this route unless you are good with small pro, and a set of hybrid Aliens are a must. I would also peg this at like 10b or c. Sep 29, 2010