Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,304 total · 7/month
Shared By: Bryan Gall on Mar 12, 2004
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This "twin crack" is the second route from the left on the Poison Ivy Wall. The Poison Ivy Wall is located on the west side of No Name Creek approached by crossing the creek at the bridge and walking the utility road back downstream towards the obvious cliff band. Silver doors cut into the cliff for Glenwood Springs' water diversion facility. Up and to the right of the doors is the Poison Ivy Wall. The rightmost (and wider) of these two twin cracks is the line generally led.

Begin with jams and lie back moves up fifty feet to a slot. Locate two rap hangers on the left side of the slot. The left crack is generally considered 5.9 and more of a seam than a crack (little room for gear). It is easy to reach between the cracks at almost any time while climbing. It is possible to continue up the bush-filled chimney above to a pine tree anchor at a dirty 5.8.

This "second" pitch option generally blows. Unless you enjoy mossy dirty bramble filled chimneys, lower at the anchors.

Protection

Standard granite rack.

Photos

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Mike Bannister
  5.8+
Mike Bannister  
  5.8+
This route packs quite a bit in 50'. Sustained climbing with somewhat tricky gear down low. Solid 5.8+. Harder than Sumac (5.9) in someways but much less pumpy. Sep 3, 2013
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
In the 2008 Western Slope guidebook, this is called Railroad Cracks. Apr 26, 2014