Elevation: 6,212 ft
GPS: 39.571, -107.292 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 33,988 total · 181/month
Shared By: Bryan Gall on Jan 16, 2004
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Getting weather forecast...

Description

No Name, a side canyon off of Glenwood Canyon, offers a number of single pitch granite cracks in an easy to access yet spectacular setting. A North-South running canyon, it is possible to chase the sun or shade by alternating between the east and west side of the canyon. Because of the availability of sunshine or shade, No Name is climbable spring, summer, and fall. No Name is comprised of the same Pre-Cambrian granite found in the center of Glenwood. The closest comparable rock is found in the Black Canyon. With a strong traditional ethic, No Name is a great place to begin trad leading or to hone your skills on its harder cracks. Layton Kor is said to have originally ascended many of the lines here. The only bolts to be found here are for top anchors. Some route information can be found in Dave Pegg's guide Western Sloper.

Getting There

No Name Canyon can be accessed from the No Name exit off I-70 in Glenwood Canyon. It is the first exit east of Glenwood Springs. Once you turn off I-70, head north (away from the river) approximitely a half a mile until the road dead ends at the Jess Weaver trailhead. Park in the designated trailhead parking or on the road. Please don't block the parking for private homes. Walk up the trail (actually at this point the trail is a dirt road for utility access to Glenwood Spring's water supply) a little more than a quarter of a mile.

The east side climbs can be accessed directly off of the road before crossing No Name Creek. Cross the creek and walk back down canyon to access the west side climbs.

50 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: No Name Canyon Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at No Name Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
 4
Boulder Traverse
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 21
Second Dihedral
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 40
Jungle Book (aka Graduation Crack)
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
The War on Peace
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 23
Twin Cracks aka Railroad Cracks
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Trojan Horse
Trad 9 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 21
Electric Butterfly
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 18
Poison Ivy? (Garden Salad)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 28
Unnamed aka The Ironing Board
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 19
Sumac
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 8
Courage
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Thin Crack Variation
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 23
Lightning Bolt Crack aka The Sickle
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 11
Lone Pine Tree Direct
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 10
The Pink Face
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Boulder Traverse NoName Canyon Boulder…
 4
V2 5+ Boulder
Second Dihedral E Side > Pink Face area
 21
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Jungle Book (aka Graduation… E Side > Gray Face area
 40
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The War on Peace Jumbled Buttress
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Twin Cracks aka Railroad Cr… Poison Ivy Wall
 23
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Trojan Horse E Side > Quartzite Palace
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 9 pitches
Electric Butterfly E Side > Bridge area
 21
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Poison Ivy? (Garden Salad) Poison Ivy Wall
 18
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Unnamed aka The Ironing Board E Side > Gray Face area
 28
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Sumac Poison Ivy Wall
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Courage Jumbled Buttress
 8
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Thin Crack Variation E Side > Gray Face area
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Lightning Bolt Crack aka Th… Poison Ivy Wall
 23
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Lone Pine Tree Direct E Side > Lone Pine Tree Wall
 11
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
The Pink Face E Side > Pink Face area
 10
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in No Name Canyon »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos