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No Name Canyon Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in No Name Canyon

Alias Wall 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

East Side 17 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17

Neglected Child Area 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

No Name Canyon Boulder Problems 0 / 0 / 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11

West Side 14 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 17

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Elevation:	6,212 ft	1,893 m
GPS:	39.57124, -107.29179 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	73,739 total · 286/month
Shared By:	Bryan Gall on Jan 16, 2004 · Updates
Admins:	Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

No Name, a side canyon off of Glenwood Canyon, offers a number of single pitch granite cracks in an easy to access yet spectacular setting. A North-South running canyon, it is possible to chase the sun or shade by alternating between the east and west side of the canyon. Because of the availability of sunshine or shade, No Name is climbable spring, summer, and fall. No Name is comprised of the same Pre-Cambrian granite found in the center of Glenwood. The closest comparable rock is found in the Black Canyon. With a strong traditional ethic, No Name is a great place to begin trad leading or to hone your skills on its harder cracks. Layton Kor is said to have originally ascended many of the lines here. The only bolts to be found here are for top anchors. Some route information can be found in Dave Pegg's guide Western Sloper.

Getting There

No Name Canyon can be accessed from the No Name exit off I-70 in Glenwood Canyon. It is the first exit east of Glenwood Springs. Once you turn off I-70, head north (away from the river) approximitely a half a mile until the road dead ends at the Jess Weaver trailhead. Park in the designated trailhead parking or on the road. Please don't block the parking for private homes. Walk up the trail (actually at this point the trail is a dirt road for utility access to Glenwood Spring's water supply) a little more than a quarter of a mile.

The east side climbs can be accessed directly off of the road before crossing No Name Creek. Cross the creek and walk back down canyon to access the west side climbs.

50 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at No Name Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

V2 5+ 4 ● Boulder Traverse Boulder No Name Canyon Boulde…
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 26 ● Second Dihedral Trad E Side > Pink Face area
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 46 ● Jungle Book (aka Graduation Crack) Trad E Side > Gray Face area
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 28 ● Twin Cracks aka Railroad Cracks Trad W Side > Poison Ivy Wall
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 24 ● Electric Butterfly Trad E Side > Bridge area
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c 19 ● Poison Ivy? (Garden Salad) Trad W Side > Poison Ivy Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 35 ● Unnamed aka The Ironing Board Trad E Side > Gray Face area
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 21 ● Sumac Trad W Side > Poison Ivy Wall
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 8 ● Courage Trad W Side > Jumbled Buttress
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R 6 ● Left Side of Gray Face Trad E Side > Gray Face area
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 8 ● Thin Crack Variation Trad E Side > Gray Face area
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 19 ● Lone Pine Tree Direct Trad E Side > Lone Pine Tree Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 26 ● Lightning Bolt Crack aka The Sickle Trad W Side > Poison Ivy Wall
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 13 ● The Pink Face Trad E Side > Pink Face area
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X 5 ● Lone Pine Tree Right Trad, TR E Side > Lone Pine Tree Wall