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Elevation: 6,212 ft 1,893 m
GPS: 39.57124, -107.29179
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Shared By: Bryan Gall on Jan 16, 2004 · Updates
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
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Description Suggest change

No Name, a side canyon off of Glenwood Canyon, offers a number of single pitch granite cracks in an easy to access yet spectacular setting. A North-South running canyon, it is possible to chase the sun or shade by alternating between the east and west side of the canyon. Because of the availability of sunshine or shade, No Name is climbable spring, summer, and fall. No Name is comprised of the same Pre-Cambrian granite found in the center of Glenwood. The closest comparable rock is found in the Black Canyon. With a strong traditional ethic, No Name is a great place to begin trad leading or to hone your skills on its harder cracks. Layton Kor is said to have originally ascended many of the lines here. The only bolts to be found here are for top anchors. Some route information can be found in Dave Pegg's guide Western Sloper.

Getting There Suggest change

No Name Canyon can be accessed from the No Name exit off I-70 in Glenwood Canyon. It is the first exit east of Glenwood Springs. Once you turn off I-70, head north (away from the river) approximitely a half a mile until the road dead ends at the Jess Weaver trailhead. Park in the designated trailhead parking or on the road. Please don't block the parking for private homes. Walk up the trail (actually at this point the trail is a dirt road for utility access to Glenwood Spring's water supply) a little more than a quarter of a mile.

The east side climbs can be accessed directly off of the road before crossing No Name Creek. Cross the creek and walk back down canyon to access the west side climbs.

51 Total Climbs

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Location: No Name Canyon Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at No Name Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 29
● Second Dihedral
Trad
E Side > Pink Face area
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 51
● Jungle Book (aka Graduation Crack)
Trad
E Side > Gray Face area
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
● The War on Peace
Trad 4 pitches
W Side > Jumbled Buttress
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
● Twin Cracks aka Railroad Cracks
Trad
W Side > Poison Ivy Wall
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 15
● Lone Pine Tree Left
Trad
E Side > Lone Pine Tree Wall
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 26
● Electric Butterfly
Trad
E Side > Bridge area
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 20
● Poison Ivy? (Garden Salad)
Trad
W Side > Poison Ivy Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 40
● Unnamed aka The Ironing Board
Trad
E Side > Gray Face area
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 22
● Sumac
Trad
W Side > Poison Ivy Wall
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 8
● Courage
Trad
W Side > Jumbled Buttress
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 11
● Thin Crack Variation
Trad
E Side > Gray Face area
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 21
● Lone Pine Tree Direct
Trad
E Side > Lone Pine Tree Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 27
● Lightning Bolt Crack aka The Sickle
Trad
W Side > Poison Ivy Wall
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 15
● The Pink Face
Trad
E Side > Pink Face area
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
 6
● Lone Pine Tree Right
Trad, TR
E Side > Lone Pine Tree Wall
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Second Dihedral E Side > Pink Face area
 29
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
● Jungle Book (aka Graduation… E Side > Gray Face area
 51
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● The War on Peace W Side > Jumbled Buttress
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
● Twin Cracks aka Railroad Cr… W Side > Poison Ivy Wall
 29
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Lone Pine Tree Left E Side > Lone Pine Tree Wall
 15
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Electric Butterfly E Side > Bridge area
 26
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
● Poison Ivy? (Garden Salad) W Side > Poison Ivy Wall
 20
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
● Unnamed aka The Ironing Board E Side > Gray Face area
 40
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Sumac W Side > Poison Ivy Wall
 22
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Courage W Side > Jumbled Buttress
 8
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● Thin Crack Variation E Side > Gray Face area
 11
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Lone Pine Tree Direct E Side > Lone Pine Tree Wall
 21
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
● Lightning Bolt Crack aka Th… W Side > Poison Ivy Wall
 27
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
● The Pink Face E Side > Pink Face area
 15
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
● Lone Pine Tree Right E Side > Lone Pine Tree Wall
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in No Name Canyon »

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JD Morgan in No Name, Colorado.
JD Morgan in No Name, Colorado.
 12

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