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Areas in No Name Canyon

East Side 16 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Flume Wall, The 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Hideout, The 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Jumbled Buttress 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
NoName Canyon Boulder Problems 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Poison Ivy Wall 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 8
Elevation: 6,212 ft
GPS: 39.571, -107.292 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 21,205 total, 125/month
Shared By: Bryan Gall on Jan 16, 2004
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

No Name, a side canyon off of Glenwood Canyon, offers a number of single pitch granite cracks in an easy to access yet spectacular setting. A North-South running canyon, it is possible to chase the sun or shade by alternating between the east and west side of the canyon. Because of the availability of sunshine or shade, No Name is climbable spring, summer, and fall. No Name is comprised of the same Pre-Cambrian granite found in the center of Glenwood. The closest comparable rock is found in the Black Canyon. With a strong traditional ethic, No Name is a great place to begin trad leading or to hone your skills on its harder cracks. Layton Kor is said to have originally ascended many of the lines here. The only bolts to be found here are for top anchors. Some route information can be found in Dave Pegg's guide Western Sloper.

Getting There

No Name Canyon can be accessed from the No Name exit off I-70 in Glenwood Canyon. It is the first exit east of Glenwood Springs. Once you turn off I-70, head north (away from the river) approximitely a half a mile until the road dead ends at the Jess Weaver trailhead. Park in the designated trailhead parking or on the road. Please don't block the parking for private homes. Walk up the trail (actually at this point the trail is a dirt road for utility access to Glenwood Spring's water supply) a little more than a quarter of a mile.

The east side climbs can be accessed directly off of the road before crossing No Name Creek. Cross the creek and walk back down canyon to access the west side climbs.

38 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at No Name Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
Boulder Traverse
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Second Dihedral
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jungle Book (aka Graduation Crack)
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The War on Peace
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twin Cracks aka Railroad Cracks
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trojan Horse
Trad 9 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Electric Butterfly
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Poison Ivy? (Garden Salad)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed aka The Ironing Board
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sumac
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Courage
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thin Crack Variation
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lone Pine Tree Direct
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lightning Bolt Crack aka The Sickle
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
The Pink Face
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Boulder Traverse NoName Canyon Boulder Problems V2 5+ Boulder
Second Dihedral E Side > Pink Face area 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Jungle Book (aka Graduation… E Side > Gray Face area 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The War on Peace Jumbled Buttress 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Twin Cracks aka Railroad Cr… Poison Ivy Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Trojan Horse E Side > Quartzite Palace 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 9 pitches
Electric Butterfly E Side > Bridge area 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Poison Ivy? (Garden Salad) Poison Ivy Wall 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Unnamed aka The Ironing Board E Side > Gray Face area 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Sumac Poison Ivy Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Courage Jumbled Buttress 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Thin Crack Variation E Side > Gray Face area 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Lone Pine Tree Direct E Side > Lone Pine Tree Wall 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Lightning Bolt Crack aka Th… Poison Ivy Wall 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
The Pink Face E Side > Pink Face area 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in No Name Canyon »

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Photos

Andrew Hewitt
Somerville
Andrew Hewitt   Somerville
There are two (new?) sport routes on the west side of the canyon once you cross the river. Anyone have any FA info? They were lots of fun, and I think somewhere in the low to mid-.10 range? Aug 18, 2015
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
I've spied a couple of lines that might be worth climbing. Maybe not though.... Like that splitter line you see on your right side as you walk the flat spot on the road up. The shallow dihedral that is probly over 100' long terminating on a pedestal 2/3 of the way up the Sawatch sandstone wall. Scoped it out one day and it looks like it would take lots of big cams, more than I have for sure. Spotted another dihedral in the buttress up canyon from that one kinda the gully between them really (both of these options would probly be full blown adventure routes complete with lots of choss). There is a granite buttress that sits below these that could be cleaned and turned into a mixed crag. We should get a crew together to develop some new routes. Jul 7, 2011
rick gardiner
Grand Junction, CO,
rick gardiner   Grand Junction, CO,
If you pass the first (steep!) side trail up to this crag, there is a much mellower trail angling back up to the wall with a hand line to assist up the loose slope. May 29, 2010
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
Brosky, It is possible to toprope many of the crags at No Name, some easily done and some not-so-easily. The new guide attempts to give some basic directions for doing so. The Jungle Book area, Lone Tree Wall and Beginners Slab are all reasonably easy to get to with some basic to moderate scrambling. Aug 24, 2008
Lisha  
Just wanted to put the word out to expect somewhat of a nasty approach to the Jungle Book area once you step off the trail/access road. It is a very steep grade and consists of mostly dirt with few solid imbedded rocks for stable foot placement. The local guide makes no mention of this. Awesome rock to climb on and throw some gear into, if you survive the approach! Aug 24, 2008
Brosky  
Are there any walk-offs here for top-roping, by chance? Aug 5, 2008
Bryan Gall
New Castle, CO
Bryan Gall   New Castle, CO
Generally yes. All the established routes can be done with a single rope. The option exists on the West Side to go "exploring" above the cragging routes. Most of this is low angle with a few worthwhile cracks. You may want a second rope for rappelling off trees and other various anchors. If you really want quality multi pitch routes that require two rope descents in the Glenwood area, head across the Colorado River between the Hanging Lake and Shoshone exits. May 6, 2004
Is this a one-rope crag? May 5, 2004

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