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Routes in 4. The Iron Wall

Birdsong T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bong Route, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cast Iron T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Detritus Spite Us T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Evening Breezeway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Falconer, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Honey Cwm T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Iron Potato T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Iron Sharpens Iron T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Long Iron T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Low Pressure Zone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
New Potato Caboose T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pig Iron T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Surprise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad
FA: C. Kirk ??
Page Views: 98 total · 10/month
Shared By: Joel Unema on Sep 22, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Unknown Route perhaps put up by Cullen Kirk and others around 2013/2014. Found Route name and grade on the Wayback Machine, but couldn't get a photo or description. I have climbed what I think is Long Iron, and the line is awesome, so I'll provide information assuming that the line I climbed is Long Iron.

Amazing long varied crack.  Starts low by New Potato Caboose.  A couple potentially loose blocks still exist here, though I cleaned a bunch.  Start on crack with jugs, climb up and gain clean corner.   Follow clean corner through cruxy thin section to awesome double crack at top.  

This line needs some cleaning/traffic for the lichen.  It will be excellent once it really cleans up.

Location

Starts a few feet left of New Potato Caboose.  See photos

Protection

Best recollection is triple set from green c3 size to #2 with a #3 or two.  Bring extra and suss it out for yourself.

Photos

Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
 
I (re?) cleaned this line and rope soloed it last year. It felt hard for the grade and might feel more like 11+ with some more lichen scrubbing. It is an amazing long line and will be one of the best with a little traffic. May 24, 2018

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