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Routes in 5. The Iron Wall

Birdsong T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bong Route, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cast Iron T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Detritus Spite Us T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Evening Breezeway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Falconer, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Honey Cwm T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Iron Potato T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Iron Sharpens Iron T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Long Iron T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Low Pressure Zone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
New Potato Caboose T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pig Iron T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Steam Machine T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Surprise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: J. Unema
Page Views: 1,040 total · 16/month
Shared By: Joel Unema on Jun 28, 2013
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Hand jams, finger-lock, and stem through the first third to reach a stance. Commit to the twin seams, staying left of the hand-crack to the right (a separate route), and launch into a delicate and powerful boulder problem on twin seams in iron-hard basalt. Upon reaching holds at the end of the crux, continue straight up the thin-hand crack to the final section of engaging ending, finishing at the rim. The belay ledge at the base of this climb also accesses a old-school hand-crack to the west of Iron Sharpens Iron.

The old-school route has a bong piton or something similar with some tat on it. The line is well-defined, and is not hard to follow.


Located on the Iron wall. Looking at the cliff from across the canyon, Iron Sharpens Iron is approximately 30 feet left of Detritus Spite Us. Rappel off a tree 40' back from the rim, run the rope through a clearing without trees,then run the rope just to the east of a slightly dirty notch. The belay is a comfortable ledge about 70' down with two bolts for a belay anchor. Check out the beta photos to get oriented and find the climb.


Belay bolts at bottom. Double set from 00 through #1 camalot. Medium nuts.


JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Volunteer has been waiting a long time for a test piece like this... Way to get it done Joel! A striking line if you like the thin stuff. Jun 28, 2013
Ben Crawford
Boulder, CO
Ben Crawford   Boulder, CO
Such a rad route. The crux is short but packs a punch. Great movement! Aug 29, 2018
Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
Glad you liked it Ben! Heard you and Laura found some alternate beta? Aug 30, 2018

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