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Routes in The Iron Wall

Bong Route, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cast Iron T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Detritus Spite Us T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Evening Breezeway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Falconer, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Honey Cwm T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Iron Potato T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Iron Sharpens Iron T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Long Iron T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Low Pressure Zone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
New Potato Caboose T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pig Iron T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Surprise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Seth Dyer, James Q Martin 2011
Page Views: 1,053 total · 14/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Sep 3, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Pig Iron is a striking, almost elegant looking line when seen from across canyon. However, the harder climbing on this pitch is both bouldery, and down home thin hands jamming. Rappel 90' to good mini tower ledge, one piece fixed belay- bring medium wires to supplement.

From the ledge head up lower angle right facing dihedral with smeary foot edges. Mantle up onto very slopey ledge below the roof, and have a look at the first crux. A large left side pull rail allows passage through this somewhat thuggy section. This feature was formed by a 6' long flake which came off in my bare hands while scoping the line.

After the roof, pick your way wisely through the next 40' of splitter crack climbing. The angle doesn't seem steep, but the thin hands jamming will test you for sure. It's 5.10+ that you could easily fall "out" of. At the end of the splitter section follow the crack as it bends to the right past several easy boulder problems, and then romp to the top.

Location

100' east of Hobel Memorial. Just west (climbers right) of scrappy cedar on rim.

Protection

Double set from #2 TCU- #1 Camalot. Extra #.75 Camalot, one each #0 and #1 TCU, one #2 Camalot, medium wires. Plenty of draws.

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