Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Seth Dyer, James Q Martin 2011
Page Views: 1,497 total · 15/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Sep 3, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


21 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Pig Iron is a striking, almost elegant looking line when seen from across canyon. However, the harder climbing on this pitch is both bouldery and down home thin hands jamming. Bomber rock and gear from start to finish.

Rappel 90' to good mini tower ledge, one bolt belay- bring medium wires to supplement. From the ledge head up lower angle right facing dihedral with smeary foot edges. Mantle up onto very slopey ledge below the roof, and have a look at the first crux. A large left side pull rail allows passage through this somewhat thuggy section. This feature was formed by a 6 foot long flake which came off in my hands while scoping the line.

After the roof, jam your way through the next 40' of a splitter small hands crack. The angle doesn't seem steep, but the thin hands jamming will test you for sure. At the end of the splitter section follow the crack as it bends to the right past several easy boulder problems, and then romp to the top.
Johnny Cash, Rock Island Line

Location

100' east of Hobel Memorial. Just west (climbers right) of scrappy cedar on rim.

Protection

Double set from #2 TCU- #1 Camalot. Extra #.75 Camalot, one each #0 and #1 TCU, one #2 Camalot, medium wires. Plenty of draws.

Photos

0 Comments