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Routes in 5.2 Top Shelf

All Right then, I’ll go to Hell TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Allowed she would Sivilize me TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cartwheel through a Mosque TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cross Bronx wrong exit TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Further Bus TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Left Bracket T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Lemon Tart TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Madness in Any Direction TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Masters of the Universe TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maybe it Meant something TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Not Eternal TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Opened my Mouth, Almost TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sampo, The TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Too Rare to Die TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Too Weird to Live, and TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Väinämöinen TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Warn’t no home like a Raft TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: TR, 35 ft
FA: TR Ken Roberts
Page Views: 31 total, 6/month
Shared By: kenr on Jul 6, 2017
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Face climbing, including some small holds abrasive on fingertips.

Directly up to the ridge (perhaps starting a foot or two right) - (without using easier holds leading up to the vague gully in center of slab).
. . . Variation 1: Start 6-8 feet to right and diagonal left (on bigger holds) to reach ridge, then up the ridge: Fun and not more than 5.7 until reach the bulge (can try it on TR even if don't expect to get past bulge).

Next directly up the ridge (finding side-pulls to left and right).
. . . Variation 2: Step left before reaching the bulge, then straight up - (a bit less difficult, if find the best footholds).

Next directly over the bulge, and directly up (perhaps trending slightly left) to reach the ledge above.
. . . Variation 3: Easier to get onto the ledge from more to the right.

Finally easy to reach the rock by the bare tree.

name? quote from 1972 book, seminal for the "new journalism".

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

Below ridge which forms boundary between slab to its left and big overhanging dihedral its to right.

- - > See on this Photo

Protection

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this Top Shelf sector.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos

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