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Routes in 5.2 Top Shelf

All Right then, I’ll go to Hell TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Allowed she would Sivilize me TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cartwheel through a Mosque TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cross Bronx wrong exit TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Further Bus TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Left Bracket T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Lemon Tart TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Madness in Any Direction TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Masters of the Universe TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maybe it Meant something TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Not Eternal TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Opened my Mouth, Almost TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sampo, The TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Too Rare to Die TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Too Weird to Live, and TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Väinämöinen TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Warn’t no home like a Raft TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: TR, 35 ft
FA: TR Will Bergman + Ken Roberts
Page Views: 28 total · 3/month
Shared By: kenr on May 16, 2017
Admins: SMarsh

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Description

Challenging moves which are not necessarily fun. Good choice if want to work on mantle technique (or crimps on horizontal edges).

Up to left side of rock protruding from obvious horizontal break. Get foot up onto protrusion, then over the bulge, using the arete on its right side.
. . . (Harder if do not use arete, easier if touch foot into gully on right side of arete).
Next a mantle onto a slopy ledge, which likely will feel awkward the first time.
. . . (but on top-rope could repeat it, get more toward "elegant").

name? From the Kalevala of Finland.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location

Face between vertical crack and the obvious gully / wide crack in the middle of this sector which goes up to an overhang at its top right. Below from between a pancake and a bit protrusion in the obvious horizontal break about 20 feet up.

- - > See on this Photo

Protection

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this Top Shelf sector.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos

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