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Routes in The Other Place (CLOSED)
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Accusing the Innocent S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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All Tuckered Out S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Arresting Start to a Noble Finish S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Astrolube Sex Wax S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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B-52 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Beetle Byway S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Champollion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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D.D. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Danger Flake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dark Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Depth Charge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Eddie's Slab S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Eeyore Got the Bosch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Enchanted Forest S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Flaming Pellets S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hook, Line, and Sinker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hope Pathology S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hundred Acre Wood S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Krag Kommander S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Low Brow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Macauley's Irish Stout S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Makes You Figure S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Malt Extract S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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My First Eleven S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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New Mexican Rodeo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Old Scratch S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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P38 Lightning S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Plumb Pudding S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Potato Gun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pulp Friction. S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Ring Worm S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Roof of Death T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Rosetta Stone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Slap, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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SR71 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Stolen Tiggers T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Submarine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Teeter S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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There's a Thing on the Wing of this Plane S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tooter TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Treeiage S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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U-Boat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Warm, Warm Disco S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Way of the Beaver S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 38.14137, -80.90997 |
| FA: | Mark Stevenson 2002 |
| Page Views: | 1,181 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | ChrisHau on May 10, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Luc-514 |
Access Issue: SOUTH SIDE CRAGS ARE CLOSED
Details
Description
Begin as for Stiff Upper Lip (11d), groveling your way through some dirty crack/offwidth. Take care reaching the second bolt, and then paddle through some subpar overhanging stone to the base of a dihedral roof feature.
Do a few hard pulls to reach a no-hands rest before the crux, a beautifully featureless sheet of white-orange stone. Crank a hard lockoff to reach the slippery arete, then figure out how to not barndoor off as you aim for a stance out left under the cap roof.
Though it would be logical to end the route here, every New River climb must end at the top of the cliff, so do a final dirty roof encounter, trending right along a roof flake to anchors on the face (make sure you take a moment to locate these from the ground or you might get hopelessly lost).
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