South side crags access issue.
As of now it seems that a logging company has placed boulders in the road out to the south side crags and they are impassible. This of course hinders access. Check with WaterStone on before heading out or use your own judgment.
PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
This year parking along southbound highway 19 has really increased in numbers. Often, nearly 100 cars are just parked along the side of a busy four lane, 65mph highway. While it's not yet illegal (but surely will be if it continues), here are some guidelines:
- DO NOT park past the sign near the bridge. It indicates something like "no parking to the right," but actually means "no parking past this sign" (thanks DOT). This is to keep access open for emergency 4x4s that may need to descend to gorge for rescues.
-Park completely off the pavement, preferably diagonally, with vehicle rears facing away from the road. I've seen a couple cars actually back out into the highway as they exit the parking. This is stupid and dangerous.
-consider using the large gravel parking lot just off the Underwood Rd. Seriously, it only adds an extra 5 minutes of walking. You came to the Meadow for those closely bolted easy climbs that the NRG lacks, so pay your dues and walk a little, goober. Seriously, you take an extra five minutes to set up your hammock at the crag anyway, it's not a huge deal.
Local climbers and boaters have been getting increasingly irate about bad/excessive parking off of 19. If it keeps as it has been going, the likely outcome will be a simple ban on parking, with no other alternatives. Let's try to self-regulate, m'kay?
COVID 19 UPDATE: PLEASE FOLLOW THE ADVICE OF THE ACCESS FUND, AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB, NRAC, AND OTHERS BY NOT COMING TO THE NRG DURING THIS HEALTH CRISIS
All restaurants, lodging, and facilities are closed in the Fayetteville area. As in many rural areas, the population of Southern West Virginia is unusually vulnerable to this virus, health facilities are limited, and it is very possible that outside visitors could spread Covid-19 here. Please stay home, train, and the rock will be here when this is all passed.
This is the line to do if you come to this area! Amazing climbing through 2 large roofs with fixed draws the whole way. Climb up the vertical face, making some thin moves before the 1st roof. Climb out the 15 ft roof along a flake to reach the upper face under the next roof. Make a thin traverse right and then head up to pull the 2nd roof (crux). Once you pull the 2nd roof, it's smooth sailing for about 20 feet to the shuts.
From the approach trail, head right. Pass a beautiful white blunt arete (Submarine, 5.12a) and look for the tall climb with massive roofs. The start is just behind a boulder and large tree.