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Routes in The Other Place

Accusing the Innocent S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
All Tiggered Out S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Arresting Start to a Noble Finish S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Astrolube Sex Wax S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
B-52 S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beetle Byway S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bitch Slap S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Champollion S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
D.D. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Danger Flake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dark Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Depth Charge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Disco S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eor Got the Bosch, Tigger Got Drilled S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flaming Pellets S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hard, Pipe Hitting Tiggers S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hook, Line and Tigger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hope Pathology S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hundred Acre Wood S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Krag Kommander S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Low Brow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Macauley's Irish Stout S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Makes You Tigger S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
My First Eleven S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Mexican Rodeo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Old Scratch S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
P38 Lightning S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Plumb Pudding S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ring Worm S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof of Death T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Rosetta Stone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
SR71 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Stolen Tiggers T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Submarine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Teeter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tigger Goes to the Enchanted Forest and Tears a Flapper on Pooh's Asshole S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tigger's Got a Gun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tiggers and Airplanes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tooter TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Treeiage S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
U Boat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown, 5.10c S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Way of the Beaver, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Matt Fanning, 2007
Page Views: 3,491 total, 39/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Aug 8, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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South side crags access issue. Details
Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is the line to do if you come to this area! Amazing climbing through 2 large roofs with fixed draws the whole way. Climb up the vertical face, making some thin moves before the 1st roof. Climb out the 15 ft roof along a flake to reach the upper face under the next roof. Make a thin traverse right and then head up to pull the 2nd roof (crux). Once you pull the 2nd roof, it's smooth sailing for about 20 feet to the shuts.

Location

From the approach trail, head right. Pass a beautiful white blunt arete (Submarine, 5.12a) and look for the tall climb with massive roofs. The start is just behind a boulder and large tree.

Protection

9 Fixed draws, shuts.

Photos

To echo what Brad said, please avoid extending the draw above the roof! Seriously, you only have to do one more move to clip, and it's all air underneath you... There's a ratty nylon one on there now- it may last a while, but it _will_ fail eventually. Plus, it obstructs the steel biner such that any direct clipping of the permadraw would result in dangerous rope/dogbone friction in the event of a fall. If you still feel the need to extend, please pull the dogbone when you're finished. Sep 5, 2017
Brad Leneis
  5.12b
Brad Leneis  
  5.12b
Probably best to avoid extending the first perma-draw above the roof -- doing so makes it easier to clip, but if you fall the dogbone gets loaded over a sharp lip. I pulled a spectra dogbone off that was nearly sliced through. If you do extend it, best to use a draw with a nylon dogbone. May 30, 2016