Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Matt Fanning, 2007
Page Views: 3,928 total · 38/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Aug 8, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Access Issue: South side crags access issue. Details
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is the line to do if you come to this area! Amazing climbing through 2 large roofs with fixed draws the whole way. Climb up the vertical face, making some thin moves before the 1st roof. Climb out the 15 ft roof along a flake to reach the upper face under the next roof. Make a thin traverse right and then head up to pull the 2nd roof (crux). Once you pull the 2nd roof, it's smooth sailing for about 20 feet to the shuts.

Location

From the approach trail, head right. Pass a beautiful white blunt arete (Submarine, 5.12a) and look for the tall climb with massive roofs. The start is just behind a boulder and large tree.

Protection

9 Fixed draws, shuts.

Photos

Brad Leneis
  5.12b
Brad Leneis  
  5.12b
Probably best to avoid extending the first perma-draw above the roof -- doing so makes it easier to clip, but if you fall the dogbone gets loaded over a sharp lip. I pulled a spectra dogbone off that was nearly sliced through. If you do extend it, best to use a draw with a nylon dogbone. May 30, 2016
Mark Paulson
Raleigh, NC
Mark Paulson   Raleigh, NC
To echo what Brad said, please avoid extending the draw above the roof! Seriously, you only have to do one more move to clip, and it's all air underneath you... There's a ratty nylon one on there now- it may last a while, but it _will_ fail eventually. Plus, it obstructs the steel biner such that any direct clipping of the permadraw would result in dangerous rope/dogbone friction in the event of a fall. If you still feel the need to extend, please pull the dogbone when you're finished. Sep 5, 2017