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Routes in The Other Place

Accusing the Innocent S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
All Tiggered Out S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Arresting Start to a Noble Finish S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Astrolube Sex Wax S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
B-52 S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beetle Byway S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bitch Slap S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Champollion S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
D.D. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Danger Flake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dark Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Depth Charge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Disco S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eor Got the Bosch, Tigger Got Drilled S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flaming Pellets S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hard, Pipe Hitting Tiggers S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hook, Line and Tigger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hope Pathology S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hundred Acre Wood S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Krag Kommander S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Low Brow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Macauley's Irish Stout S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Makes You Tigger S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
My First Eleven S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Mexican Rodeo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Old Scratch S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
P38 Lightning S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Plumb Pudding S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ring Worm S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof of Death T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Rosetta Stone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
SR71 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Stolen Tiggers T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Submarine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Teeter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tigger Goes to the Enchanted Forest and Tears a Flapper on Pooh's Asshole S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tigger's Got a Gun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tiggers and Airplanes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tooter TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Treeiage S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
U Boat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown, 5.10c S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Way of the Beaver, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Matt Faning
Page Views: 900 total, 11/month
Shared By: Orphaned on May 28, 2011
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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South side crags access issue. Details
Writing in chalk Details

Description

Climb some relatively easy, but thoughtful, slab to the roof. Milk a half-sit rest and then head into the roof. Some good holds lead up to a large deadpoint/dyno to a sloping edge followed by a core intensive match and then some pumpy 5.12 climbing to the chains.

Location

This is the first sport route climbers right of the large roof crack that splits the roof.

Protection

Mostly, if not all, fixed draws.

Photos

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Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
I'm betting it's a 3/8 inch bolt in the roof without loctite on it. If so then it's not surprising. I'd think that half inchers or glueins would be a better choice. Maybe I'll get out there and fix them sometime. Oct 17, 2016
BrianWS  
The same deformation has happened on other routes that go through large roofs (for example, depth charge's second roof bolt). People whip away on these loose hangers, which messes the bolts up.

Just a reminder that if possible, please be a good steward and tighten any loose nuts hat you find before the hanger is able to move far enough away from the rock for a fall to bend the bolt out of shape. Oct 17, 2016