Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Matt Faning
Page Views: 1,028 total · 11/month
Shared By: Orphaned on May 28, 2011
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: South side crags access issue. Details
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19 Details
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Climb some relatively easy, but thoughtful, slab to the roof. Milk a half-sit rest and then head into the roof. Some good holds lead up to a large deadpoint/dyno to a sloping edge followed by a core intensive match and then some pumpy 5.12 climbing to the chains.

Location

This is the first sport route climbers right of the large roof crack that splits the roof.

Protection

Mostly, if not all, fixed draws.

Photos

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BrianWS  
The same deformation has happened on other routes that go through large roofs (for example, depth charge's second roof bolt). People whip away on these loose hangers, which messes the bolts up.

Just a reminder that if possible, please be a good steward and tighten any loose nuts hat you find before the hanger is able to move far enough away from the rock for a fall to bend the bolt out of shape. Oct 17, 2016
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
I'm betting it's a 3/8 inch bolt in the roof without loctite on it. If so then it's not surprising. I'd think that half inchers or glueins would be a better choice. Maybe I'll get out there and fix them sometime. Oct 17, 2016